Having been a devoted listener of Bob Harris’ country music shows on Radio 2 for years, starting our American journey in ‘Music City’ USA was a dream come true for me!

Our hotel was a short walk from the Opryland Resort, a posh version of Center Parcs with lots of lush greenery under a glass dome, and twee themed stores, conference centres and restaurants. Good place to walk off the jet lag.

Music Row did not disappoint, with a whole street of famous country music bars to sample – Legends, The Stage, Robert’s Western World and Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville some of the best. Getting into the bars was a challenge  after 7pm as the bouncers on the doors wanted photo ID to prove I was over 40!!  Second attempt, still not able to get into Roberts, because we had our rucksacks  with us! By the third evening, we were sorted – small handbag, driving licenses, and we were in!

Of course, had to do an evening at the Opry, a live radio recording with several acts doing a few songs each (even Merle Haggard made a surprise appearance).  Bit like a cross between being on a cruise ship and in a TV show, complete with adverts and an interlude with American square dancing – think  Irish  meets clog dancing, but with more whacky leg twirling!! 

Getting away from Honky Tonk Row and exploring some of the other venues, we savoured a more intimate experience with three songwriters at a charity gig in The Listening Room Cafe, who performed songs they had written for many famous singers such as Keith Urban and  Josh Groban (aaw takes me back to our wedding with Josh Groban songs!). Striking Matches at The Third and Lyndsley were awesome, watch out for this group over here as they are going to be huge!

But I am getting carried away! We did do more than bars and listen to music! Nashville has great museums, RCA studios,backstage tours etc. Listening to  ‘Jolene’ and ‘Are you Lonesome Tonight?’ in the actual studio where they were recorded  was a very special, and surprisingly moving experience.

Hatch Print tour

Pre-trip research on gluten free eateries paid off and most places we found had suitable options. Frothy Monkey did great coffee for Mike and I stocked up on bread and muffins for breakfast! Artisan cooking had not arrived at our hotel though, and we were treated to reincarnated sausages each day – chopped the second day, mixed with biscuits (scones) and ‘gravy’ the next…..

East Nashville was our kind of neighbourhood, with more of an ‘alternative’ vibe. Babies in slings and dogs-on-a-rope. Artisan shops, cafes and bars intermingle with wood-clad houses in leafy wide roads. No MacDonalds here! A welcome  change to find some quiet respite and ‘down time’ after a week of music, bars and museums!

mailboxes

Lots of places named after the Cumberland River!

Mike worked his way through the craft beer menu at the Pharmacy, whilst  I had a mint ‘phosphate’ (like a soda but not as fizzy) and we munched on bratwursts and sweet potato fries. Marche was a great place for lunch – orangey coloured eggs and cheese grits (a sort of savoury rice-pudding made from polenta) which became a favourite of mine.

Offering to take photos was a good way to get talking to people and the locals we met were really friendly and keen to recommend eateries and things to do. One lady even phoned  a cab for us to go back downtown when we were struggling with our phones!

We would love to go back to Nashville again- great music, kindness and sunshine! – in the meantime, we are watching  the TV series to help us reminisce…..

‘and the song goes on for the traveling kind’ Rodney Crowell and Emmylou Harris.