The Time Machine

Those of you who read H.G.Wells and enjoy science fiction may not have realised there is a Steam Punk museum at Oamaru, and the Otago region is dotted with little Victorian and Edwardian gold-mining towns and fruit-growing areas. In fact, the whole region is like stepping back in time…even the petrol pumps are attended!

 

Dùn Èideann

Dunedin, which is Gaelic for Edinburgh, is our base for the week, and feels just like a mini Edinburgh (from what I remember from my college days), cool breeze from the sea, impressive Victorian buildings and even a Princes Street! The school uniforms are tartan, and there are strains of bagpipe music in the streets…..

 

 

At the Otago Settlers museum, we read about the settlers from Europe and China who travelled here for the whaling, gold mining and farming, many from Scotland of course. For the literary folk, Rose Tremain’s ‘The Colour’ details the gold mining fervour, and an interesting read is Jenny Pattrick’s ‘Catching the Current’ which tells the tale of a Faroese whaler who emigrates to New Zealand and creates ties with the Maori.

Gorge-ous!

We continue our journey into the past by taking a ride on a heritage Edwardian steam train, down the Taieri Gorge, from Dunedin to Pukerangi, sipping our lemonade/ beer as the train negotiates tunnels and viaducts along the spectacular river gorge.

 

Trying to take photos while standing on a moving train was interesting, but got a few to show the general idea!

New Zealand’s  ‘Coolest’ Town

My knowledge of the Victorian seaside town of Oamaru comes from Janet Frame novels, and we had not visited here before. There remain many grand Victorian buildings, reflecting the towns wealth from the local limestone, and it really does feel like we have gone back in time in the heritage area.

I am not sure whether it is ‘cool’ and hip because of the steampunk theme, or because it is ‘cold’ and far south!?

Unguided Tour

Our drive out to the Otago peninsular, much of it on unsealed roads, was a superb day for wildlife spotting with many interesting birds, and even an albatross colony! Lots of New Zealand Falcons flying about, oyster catchers, stilts and spotted shags and cormorants along the water’s edge.

The Orokonui ecosanctuary was a good place to start our tour, and learn about (and see) many of the birds and plants we encountered as we continued on our walks.

 

Along the coast are the famous and weird Moeraki Boulders, which were formed 60 million years ago by a similar process to oyster pearls, then as the cliffs eroded they tumbled down the rock face onto the beach.

Our drive to Queenstown was a sort of tour in itself, and we stocked up on fresh fruit for the week, central Otago apricots and cherries were just at the end of the season, and we were lucky to get some!

This part of the South is also famous for its vineyards, but I think Mike may enlighten us with a few tours from Queenstown…….more on that in the next blog!

I leave you with a quote from Wendell Berry, and I hope a sense of place from sharing what we have seen, some of our memories, and the history of this beautiful area.

“If you don’t know where you are, you don’t know who you are”.

See you later in Queenstown!

 

 

 

Singapore Sling

The first time we came to New Zealand, we stopped over in Singapore for four days on the way home, and really enjoyed our time there, so it was with great enthusiasm and excited anticipation we booked a two-night stopover with Singapore Airlines.

Customer service did not disappoint, with glamorous attentive staff, the women with elaborate updoos and long wraparound skirts (not sure where to look when they bend down to pick something up!), the male flight attendants equally smart, handing out regular water and juice, warm socks, pillows and blankets to make us comfortable.

We arrived at the Furama Riverfront hotel very early, 9.00am, which was too early to check in, but the staff were great and had us upgraded to a courtyard poolside room by 10 o’clock! Just what we needed, a nap and a swim to help combat the jet lag.

Singapore feels strangely familiar in a very British sort of way, with our 3-pin plug sockets, driving on the left and Marks and Spencers. The heat and humidity is a bit of a shock though, and a slowing down of our usual pace of sightseeing was required!

We did have a lovely day at the recently built Bay Gardens which was amazing – a bit like the Eden Project (in Cornwall), but much bigger, with a cloud forest dome (no glasshouse needed for the ‘tropical’ areas!) as well as a Mediterranean dome. Bit too cold for us in the Mediterranean dome though, and think the  locals here think it is colder in the Med than it actually is!

We enjoyed tasty snacks and drinks, where all my peculiar gluten free needs were catered for with careful attention and smiling staff. They even surprised me on my birthday with a cake and chocolates!

Bush and Beach

Another long flight, this time with Air New Zealand (another first for us), couple of nights at the Jet Park airport hotel to help sleep a bit, then off in our new Corolla (yes, they make new ones here!) to the Waitakere Ranges, west of Auckland, for a few days ‘tramping’ in the bush.

Armed with our factor 30, DEET insect repellant and lots of water, we enjoy a few walks, taking in the beautiful volcanic brown sandy beaches dotted with surfers.

We tramp through lush forested ‘jungle’ trails, lined with broccoli-type Pohutakawa trees, flax, Nikau palms and Kauri trees, enjoying the occasional honey scent of manuka and the exotic calls of Tui and Bellbirds and even spot a fantail.

The rangers remind us to scrub and disinfect our shoes and walking poles before we start our walks, to help stop the spread of the devastating kauri die-back disease, which is a problem here. There are still beautiful forests though, reminiscent of a Pissarro painting.

At  Lone Kauri Lodge, Keith and Ann make our stay special by providing for our every comfort, and we feel very spoiled to be enjoying this wonderful place! Ann’s homemade jam and marmalade are super tasty, and Keith gives us invaluable information for our walking trips, being a keen tramper himself (and bread maker!).  The outdoor hot tub, looking at the stars was a real treat, and very relaxing!

Everyone we met was very friendly, and we hope to meet up with Erling when we are in Portland later in the year!

On our way back to Auckland, we visit the Gannet colony at Muriwai and saw lots of nesting birds with young chicks on the cliff tops – good opportunity to get the binoculars out!

Wine, beer, friends and feasting!

Back in Auckland, we meet up with friends Joanne, Alastair and the young Fairleys and are treated to a trip to Devonport for coffee, cake and a visit to the Heads (old defensive lookouts), a superb pub lunch and evening BBQ! Awesome time.

Just one more day to squeeze in a trip to the vineyards on Waiheke island…..

Next stop Dunedin, and the cool South…….we’ll keep you posted!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tequila Sunrise

We have visited Nerja a couple of times before, but only for short holidays, so having a whole month to enjoy the Spanish winter sun was a real treat!

Nerja is an old fishing village on the Costa del Sol, which is a popular destination for English, German, Swedish and Dutch holidaymakers and ex-pats. There aren’t the large high-rise blocks of Torremolinos or Benalmadena, but it is close to Malaga, and is famous for the famous caves of large stalagmites/stalagtites (which we visited last time) and sandy beaches.

Arriving in the dark was a bit like that scene in ‘Enchanted April’ where the ladies arrive at the mysterious castle in Italy on a dark, stormy evening, and wake up the next day to a sunny view revealed after opening the shutters. I opened the curtains and patio doors to the soothing sound of the sea and the warm caress of sunshine on my face! I can understand why people come here for the winter months when retired – what a great idea!

I soon settle into my morning routine – warm drink of tea, meditation then breakfast on the balcony consisting of papaya/melon with thin shavings of serrano ham, cornflakes, toast and marmalade. Watching people on the Balcon – men of a certain age (retired I suppose), short and stocky, with flat caps and cardigans, sit smoking and chatting and watch the fishermen on the beach drying out their nets. A ginger cat picks its way along the staircase wall down to the beach then sits on the sand, hopefully watching the nets.

Afternoons usually consist of a long lunch, either at one of our favourite tapas places, or on our balcony courtesy of our ‘SuperSol’ supplies, then a long beach walk.

Good Stuff and Tapas

We ate lots of great food, of course, and became frequent patrons of the Good Stuff cafe, run by an Irish couple who moved here 10 years ago – nice pot of tea, complete with hand-knitted tea cosy, GF peanut butter chocolate brownie and lemon drizzle cake means have probably already put on a few pounds as my jeans feel tight! Time to resort to the M&S magic knickers?

Our other favourite eatery was the Tapas Plaza, run by a lovely Dutch couple, who baked me a special GF bread.

Feliz Navidad!

For entertainment, we have DVDs and BBC 1, so have been able to enjoy Strictly, some of our comedies and an occasional film. Though we do go out and hear some impromptu carol singers a few times, take in a flamenco show, and see the Christmas children’s parade!

At ‘Namaste’ we enjoyed a lively evening of world-folk fusion music, with some of the ex-pat community – and were entertained by an English duo – Russell on guitar, and Chrissy on a variety of assorted instruments and hardware supplies – flute, melodica with hosepipe attachment (!), piccolo, saxophone and a Turkish snake-charming instrument!

For Christmas lunch, we revisit Tapas Plaza and pig out all afternoon! Well, isn’t that what everyone does at Christmas? (mine is a non-alcoholic cider, in case you were wondering!).

The flamenco evening, at Burro Blanco (the white donkey) was just like Strictly, complete with fans, castanets and cape twirling. Mike joins in the singing, but embarrassingly sounds like a badly-dubbed Mexican in a Sergio Leone western. I will not talk about my attempt to join in with the dancing, suffice to say, there remains no photographic evidence I actually did this……

The Balcon de Europa and town hall were festively decorated for the Season, and helped us to enjoy the spirit of Christmas without all the snow and ice! (Adam’s mulled wine and mince pies at Good Stuff cafe helped too!).

Pueblos blancos

We take a jeep safari into the Alhama Natural Park, via Competa, scenic viewpoints, coffee/tea (with pernod!) and the ‘lost’ village of Acebuchal, then more viewpoints (with Cava!) in the afternoon.

Acebuchal was on a 17th century muleteers route, and many old buildings remain, despite the village being abandoned in 1848 after suffering in the Civil War. The village was ‘rediscovered’ and restored in 1998.

There is only one restaurant, but you only need one when the food is so good! We enjoy a fabulous fresh salad, meat stew and home made ice cream with chocolate fudge sauce to build us up for the sightseeing in the afternoon!

Our guide, Michael, a sort of Dutch Ray Mears, and all round adventurer is very knowledgable about the area, and tells us interesting factoids as we hurtle around impossible off-road paths (though I miss most of the stories as I am worried by the fact he turns round to talk to us when he is driving!). He does give useful advice for those wondering about emigrating to live here in Spain – or anywhere for that matter – rent a place for a few months first, and draw up a list of all the things you need to live/work – for example, there is no point moving to Frigiliana if you rely on the internet, as the connections are rubbish!

We did a couple of day trips to Frigiliana, the famous pueblo blanco, one euro bus ride up the hill. On the way we pass a ‘Ferreteria’. I wonder if this is where the old men with the flat caps and cardigans go for their ferrets?

 

 

Had forgotten just how photogenic Frigiliana was from the previous times we had been, and in the winter light we stroll for a few hours, filling our memory cards with white buildings and wooden doorways.

 

We eat at a ‘Ronseal’ bar (it does exactly what it says on the tin), which Mike calls the ‘Jesus’ bar as there is a picture of Jesus on the sign outside! We both have steak and chips the first visit, then I have sardinas y patatas, and Mike enjoys pork loin and chips on our return.

Trivial Pursuits

We found an article in the local English paper about two Canadian journalists who invented the popular board game ‘Trivial Pursuits’. They wrote the first edition whilst staying in Nerja in 1980, thinking up questions fuelled by San Miguel beer! Following struggles to find investors for ‘Six Thousand Questions’ as the game was originally called,  one Nerja resident, a Canadian barman, decided to back them. He is now a millionaire! I suppose the quietness of the area is conducive to writers, and Spain has been a popular destination for writers since the Victorian times, with authors like Strachey, Brenan, the Woolfs and of course, Hemingway visiting the area. Maybe some of the inspiring landscape and seascape will rub off on my writing skills? Who knows? We shall see…Adios for now Amigos!

Interview with a Vampire

We are here in October and Halloween week  is coming into full swing, with lots of houses festooned with ghouls, skeletons and witches, mardi gras beads and Voodoo paraphernalia. Steam punk outfits fill the clothing shop windows . Drag queens and street performers put on their finery and poodles wearing shoes (yes, shoes!) parade around the streets of the French Quarter.

We join the Halloween theme with tours of some of the cemeteries. St. Louis No. 1 is where Marie Laveau, the mother of Voodoo, is reputed to be buried. Marie started her professional life as a hairdresser, so got to know everyone’s business though gossip in the salon, and turned this ‘secret’ knowledge to her advantage when launching a new career as a Voodoo priestess!

The tombs are traditionally built above ground, partly to prevent the bodies floating away during floods, as the whole district is built on an ex plantation swamp.  It gets so hot inside the tombs that the bodies dry to bones, and after a year and a day (Catholic tradition) the bones can be bagged and drop into the bottom section of the tomb. In this way, one tomb can house many members of the same family, a big saving I suppose!

Scenes from the film Double Jeopardy flashed through my mind whilst walking among the head-high tombs and seeing the trinkets and flowers on the stone slabs – glass Mardi gras beads instead of Jewish-style stones on top of the tombs. The festival nature of this place reflected in a glittering gold stiletto shoe, and plastic flowers (tacky but practical as fresh vegetation would wilt in a matter of minutes in the blazing summer sun).

I buy some herbal soap and a mini Voodoo doll (for healing purposes, of course!) at Voodoo Authentica. Of course, Voodoo isn’t all about sticking pins in people, but more the art of healing of the self and others through meditative thought and concentration on the positive (like most other psychotherapeutic or healing techniques, harnessing the link between mind and body for health!).

Walking around the older area of the Marigny, we see  Spanish, French and British influences in architecture, and many of the ‘shotgun’ and ‘Creole cabin’ houses (doors both sides of the house which can be opened to allow a cooling breeze through in the hot sticky summers).

In the Garden District, the houses are on a grand scale, and we walk past houses belonging to Sandra Bullock, Dan Goodman and Nicholas Cage. It was here that the film ‘The Curious Case of Benjamin Button’ was filmed, and everyone we meet has nothing but praise for Brad Pitt and his investment in the ‘Make it Right’ housing project following Hurricane Katrina and the destruction of the Ninth ward. 

Gone with the wind

Our visit to the plantation houses was a welcome quiet contrast to the loud party atmosphere of the city.

Oak Alley is the plantation house you see in all the old films, and has the famous driveway framed by arches of oak trees, dripping with lichens and tree moss. The costumed guide brought the house to life, with an entertaining tour.

Many of the buildings on the Laura plantation are still surviving, and our guide acted out stories there to transport us to the past.

In both places, the contrast between the plantation owners’ lives and that of the slaves was starkly evident, especially after our recent visit to the Civil Rights Museum in Memphis.

Cruising up and down the Mississippi on the paddle steamer Natchez with live jazz and three decks to explore was an easy way to step back to the time of Gone With the Wind! Plenty of restaurants on board, and the ubiquitous gift shop, conveniently located next door to the ladies!

 

As we were leaving the boat, the guide says ” remember whatever the question, the answer is love”, which tickled us and we entered into a ten minute question answer session of how old am I? Answer, love etc.

Exit through the Gift shop

Although there were a few things which bugged me (the hard sell, rules rules rules and always having to exit though the gift shop!), there are many great memories of my first visit to the U.S. We experienced excellent customer service in the smaller eateries we visited, and I loved being called  ‘ma’am’ all the time! The portion control and doggy bags, for those leftover dinners were a fantastic idea, and why can’t we do flushable toilet seat covers in the UK?

Most of all, though, it was the friendliness of the Americans we met (both locals and fellow tourists) which made our visit to Nashville, Memphis and New Orleans so special, and we were made to feel very welcome everywhere we went. We can’t wait for our next visit…..see ya’ll soon!

 

 

Trains and Streetcars

We are humming Willie Nelson’s ‘The City of New Orleans’ as the eponymous train makes its day-long journey from Memphis, Tennessee to Louisiana. The train is huge, with an upper deck (posh seats, facing forwards, but more of a sway), a dining car and a viewing deck. The seats are a lot bigger than the ones on UK trains, even in coach, with foot rests, reclining backs, and extendible tray tables.

We are in the end carriage, along with four retired Geordies. They regale us with stories about travels in the US, Australia and New Zealand  and their plans for a cruise of the Caribbean after a few nights in New Orleans.

Out of the train windows we see trailer homes and box-shaped houses on stilts (I wonder if that is to reduce the flooding risk, or to stop gaters getting in?), old black men on porches, towns with names like Yazoo, Jackson and Hazlehurst. Churches with names like ‘God in the Life of Christ’ face the railroad track. We are entering the Bible belt of the South. 

Among the meandering tributaries of the mighty Mississippi,  mangrove trees and termite-mound-shaped stumps rise out of the dark water. An egret stands majestically in a strip of blackening swamp, it’s white neck slender as a swan’s.

Arriving in New Orleans, we find walking is the best way to get about.

We did take the streetcar (not called Desire) once. Rattling along at barely more than a walking pace, we are ferried along Charles into the garden district.

 DBA (Don’t Bother Asking)

New Orleans is all about the jazz  and most bars and some restaurants have live music.

Bourbon street is very vibrant and noisy, with brash bars, seedy clubs and tourist trash, but the rest of the French Quarter remains arty with high-end galleries, street jazz on every corner, and sumptuous pastry cafés.

At one restaurant, I get Mike up to dance to the crooning jazz guy (think he used to play with the Drifters) and quickly realise we should have gone to some of those dance classes in the village hall! Strictly we are not!

 

Wedding parties with jazz bands and twirling handkerchiefs like Cotswold Morris Men dance round the French quarter, throwing Mardi gras beads.

Muriel’s on Jackson Square is a N.O. institution, and we had Sunday jazz brunch as a special treat. The hotel itself was very smart, with traditional Southern decor –  maroon walls and dark wood furnishings.

Some of the best music comes from buskers on the streets and we take in the sounds on our strolls through the French Quarter, and Jackson Square – dodging the touts selling horse-drawn carriage rides.

Frenchmans Street is where the discerning jazz listeners head for, taking in the vibes at DBA and The Spotted Cat.

 

In Frenchmans we meet some more friendly Americans – a retired couple (one an ex-surfer) on a road trip from AZ to Florida, and a young couple from Oregon, with whom we share our plans to visit Portland next year.

‘We Just Ate’

We discover the best snack food in the French Market – crab cakes at ‘Food from the Heart Cafe’ and the crèpe stall – my favourite was the peanut butter, banana and Nutella (basically an ‘Elvis’ without the bacon).

Other foods we sampled included traditional Creole food – crab and ‘shrimp and grits’ and  we learned not to order a starter, because you won’t be able to eat the main course!

Creole or spicy Cajun food is popular here. Gumbo, which Mike enjoyed, is a kind of soup reminiscent of the bayou – a brown swampy dish, with alligator sausage, fish, veg or meat and a dumpling!

The ‘Green Goddess’ dished up  ‘lemongrass tofu on pressed black rice’ (which I had twice it was so good!) and burger for mike, with more craft beer!

Finally, our evening at SoBou gave us a taste of innovative fusion food, such as ‘prawns pinchos with pineapple’, ‘tuna ice cream cones’ and ‘beef burger with pickled okra’, finishing with ‘pecan flambé bananas’!

Coming up to Halloween, New Orleans began to take on a more ghoulish-voodoo-chic appearance, with transformation of most of the bars and buildings into a Hammer House of Horror film set! More on that in part two………

From Country to Blues

Nashville to Memphis is only three hours by road. Luckily, we were able to use the iPhone to help navigate, as the car hire company  (sounds like a Star Trek ship) didn’t have a road map (not boldly going after all then).  A couple of rest stops for some fast food and we had arrived in Memphis – home of the Blues, Gibson guitars, Stax records, Sun Studios, and of course, Graceland.

BB King: Blues and Ribs

Both day and night on Beale Street, you can hear soul pouring out of the bars and clubs as you do the obligatory ‘walking in…’  with live music in Rum Doodles, where I discovered fried green tomatoes, and Mike had a nachos ‘starter’ that lasted all night!  I was impressed by the laryngectomee with his Blom Singer valve hollering at everyone going down Beale to step into his bar and eat the ‘best ribs’ in town!

Memphis claims to be home to the best BBQ in the South, and if the ribs and steaks are anything to go by, I would certainly agree! Central BBQ is where we experience a ‘rack of ribs’, and of course half one portion between us! 

Our favourite joint (place not food) is BB King’s, where the King Beez  play blues versions of any song you can think of, and the food is worth queuing for with a paper ticket number (a bit like waiting at the deli counter at Sainsburys, but with a bar and music).

By now, I am going straight for the ‘shrimp and grits’, my new favourite thing, and they were recommended by Cheryl from Nebraska (who was right by the way, very buttery, thanks Cheryl!). Armed with my driving license again for ID, the reception lady at BBKings lets me in free, as she can’t believe I am as old as my license! (Mike is getting a bit tired of all this by now).

Wandering along the Mississippi waterfront we come to a big pyramid (who knew Memphis has an Egyptian connection?). The main attraction is the blue glass elevator ride to the viewing deck to watch another glorious sunset over the Mighty river.

Once inside this Outdoor World- meets-taxidermist land shopping mall, we enjoy taking in the Southern culture of hunting, fishing and camping, weaving in and out of stuffed bears and deer, bearded baseball-capped rugged types looking at waders and rows of fishing tackle, to gaze at large catfish swimming in tanks with plastic river weed (I wonder if they feel scared being next to all those fishing rods?).

The King: Graceland and Sun Studios

I am reading Rosanne Cash’s autobiography, ‘Composed’ and am amazed by the connectedness of the songwriting world (one of her daughters is married to Morrissey’s nephew and lives in Manchester and  she was influenced by the music of Mark Knopfler). She talks about coming to terms with being “a feminine woman who lacks classically feminine interests, never interested in the typically girlish topics of conversation and pursuits”, and I feel a certain kinship as I read a letter written by her on display in Sun Studios.

Sun  is where Elvis became famous, and where Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison and (more recently) U2 have all recorded, and Mike of course. : ) (see below).

We step back in time to the 1950s with our Brazilian guide and soak up more music vibes, then enjoy a one dollar cup of tea whilst sitting on someone famous (actually bar stools with famous names on!). I leave with a new guitar pick and some inspiration!

From Sun Studios we catch the shuttle to Graceland and join the lines waiting for the iPad guided tour.

I had misgivings of ostentatious tackiness, but we were genuinely pleased to find Graceland a fairly modest, even homely place, and the museum exhibits tasteful and moving.

We depart with our appreciation of Elvis reignited, and a portrait of the superstar as a man who loved his family, was passionate about his music and was generous to those he cared for.

Dr King: Civil Rights and Memorials

Moving from the Meditation Garden memorials at Graceland to The Civil Rights Museum, and its own memorial to another King (Martin Luther) keep us in reflective state of mind.  The Museum is housed in the Lorraine Motel where Dr King was assassinated, and the room across the road where James Earl Ray made the shot has been carefully constructed in accurate detail; quite weirded out by this but very emotive at the same time, and the museum can take a good whole day to appreciate.

The exhibits trace the history of slavery from the 17th century, right up until the 60s, with gay and women’s rights in the 70s.  As we wander around the museum, we have time to acknowledge all the amazing people who have sacrificed themselves for our freedom and we feel a deep sense of gratitude.

We say farewell to the three Kings of Memphis, and continue our journey on board  ‘The City of New Orleans’ train, heading further south for the home of Jazz……..

Having been a devoted listener of Bob Harris’ country music shows on Radio 2 for years, starting our American journey in ‘Music City’ USA was a dream come true for me!

Our hotel was a short walk from the Opryland Resort, a posh version of Center Parcs with lots of lush greenery under a glass dome, and twee themed stores, conference centres and restaurants. Good place to walk off the jet lag.

Music Row did not disappoint, with a whole street of famous country music bars to sample – Legends, The Stage, Robert’s Western World and Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville some of the best. Getting into the bars was a challenge  after 7pm as the bouncers on the doors wanted photo ID to prove I was over 40!!  Second attempt, still not able to get into Roberts, because we had our rucksacks  with us! By the third evening, we were sorted – small handbag, driving licenses, and we were in!

 

Of course, had to do an evening at the Opry, a live radio recording with several acts doing a few songs each (even Merle Haggard made a surprise appearance).  Bit like a cross between being on a cruise ship and in a TV show, complete with adverts and an interlude with American square dancing – think  Irish  meets clog dancing, but with more whacky leg twirling!! 

Getting away from Honky Tonk Row and exploring some of the other venues, we savoured a more intimate experience with three songwriters at a charity gig in The Listening Room Cafe, who performed songs they had written for many famous singers such as Keith Urban and  Josh Groban (aaw takes me back to our wedding with Josh Groban songs!). Striking Matches at The Third and Lyndsley were awesome, watch out for this group over here as they are going to be huge!

But I am getting carried away! We did do more than bars and listen to music! Nashville has great museums, RCA studios,backstage tours etc. Listening to  ‘Jolene’ and ‘Are you Lonesome Tonight?’ in the actual studio where they were recorded  was a very special, and surprisingly moving experience.

 

Pre-trip research on gluten free eateries paid off and most places we found had suitable options. Frothy Monkey did great coffee for Mike and I stocked up on bread and muffins for breakfast! Artisan cooking had not arrived at our hotel though, and we were treated to reincarnated sausages each day – chopped the second day, mixed with biscuits (scones) and ‘gravy’ the next…..

East Nashville was our kind of neighbourhood, with more of an ‘alternative’ vibe. Babies in slings and dogs-on-a-rope. Artisan shops, cafes and bars intermingle with wood-clad houses in leafy wide roads. No MacDonalds here! A welcome  change to find some quiet respite and ‘down time’ after a week of music, bars and museums!

 

Mike worked his way through the craft beer menu at the Pharmacy, whilst  I had a mint ‘phosphate’ (like a soda but not as fizzy) and we munched on bratwursts and sweet potato fries. Marche was a great place for lunch – orangey coloured eggs and cheese grits (a sort of savoury rice-pudding made from polenta) which became a favourite of mine.

Offering to take photos was a good way to get talking to people and the locals we met were really friendly and keen to recommend eateries and things to do. One lady even phoned  a cab for us to go back downtown when we were struggling with our phones!

We would love to go back to Nashville again- great music, kindness and sunshine! – in the meantime, we are watching  the TV series to help us reminisce…..

‘and the song goes on for the traveling kind’ Rodney Crowell and Emmylou Harris.