Canada: Northern Exposure

Vancouver: Beautiful British Columbia

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Land of Elks, Mounties and ice hockey!

A short train ride from Bellingham, and we arrive in Vancouver, spotting bald eagles and herons on our journey along the coast, which was an amazing start to our Canada experience, and our exploration of Vancouver and Vancouver Island.

Reflections on Vancouver

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Looking back at the city from Canada Place waterfront

Although we love the outdoors, our interest in photography was rekindled by the interesting and contrasting architecture here in Vancouver. Dramatic cityscapes both by day and night, with clear unpolluted sky as a backdrop.

Views of the city from the Lookout!, and night time Gastown above. Below, images of the Art Deco style Marine building, once owned by Ireland’s Guinness family.

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Sea planes at Coal Harbour
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Walking down Canada Place
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Colourful containers at the dock side near Gastown

Gastown is home to many heritage buildings and a host of good pubs, as well as the famous ‘steam clock’ which plays a tune every 15 minutes.

Food

I know I have raved on about all the delicious food we have had on this trip so far in our travels across Oregon and Washington, but Vancouver is no exception to delicious gastronomy and I had to include a wee taster below!

Jazz it up

There is plenty music here during jazz festival week. We were a bit baffled by the fact you cannot stand up in a bar and have a drink though. This is because most pubs have a licence primarily for food, therefore people need to be seated to ‘eat’ and it is illegal to stand! As a result most of the pubs look empty and it isn’t an easy way to socialise, unless you are sat at the bar talking to the bartender!

On Canada Day, there is a market for all things marijuana, complete with hash brownies, karma cookies and magic chocolates! Hipsters intermingle with friendly police, everyone wearing red and white. A very unique spectacle!

Drawn towards the spirit

The Bill Reid gallery is an interesting blend of Haida first nations spiritualism with modern techniques in jewellery, printing, wood carving and graphics, complete with inspirational poetry and spiritual authenticity. Bill Reid’s mother was from Haida Gwaii (previously the Queen Charlotte Islands), and his work continued the traditions of the native peoples of the Northwest, who have lived in this area for over 12 thousand years, bringing this culture to a wider audience.

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Carved Bentwood box. Deep carving is viewed by the Haida  people as one of the “technologies of enchantment”, combining the spiritual and the physical worlds. The four sides are composed of one piece of cedar, which is notched in three places, steamed, then bent to form the box before the base is attached.

Vancouver Art Galllery holds the works of Emily Carr, who developed her modernist style during the 20s and 30s, travelling extensively in the north west, including Alaska and Vancouver Island. In the 1920s poets and artists associated with Surrealism began to collect Northwest Coast objects – works of art in which the sacred, the aesthetic and the practical were united. This movement influenced Carr, who began to develop her own style, painting expressions of her unconscious, rather than the realist style she had initially favoured.

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Gaining a new appreciation for expressionist and surrealist art at Vancouver Art Museum

At the Museum of Anthropology, Mike discovers a love for the carving of Papua New Guinea, and we marvel at the extensive collections of native artifacts from all over the world. The museum was cleverly designed so the carved poles stand in front of the glass walls, with the green landscape behind them, as near as possible to their natural ‘habitat’.

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Reconstructed traditional Haida longhouses, with crest poles, representing the spiritual ancestry of the tribes and clans, often symbolised with carvings of the bear, eagle, raven, wolf and frog.
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Great Hall of the Museum

Taking pride of place , ironically above the site of old gun emplacements, is Bill Reid’s yellow cedar carving of the Haida creation story ‘The Raven and the First Men’. The Raven is flying around Haida Gwaii after the great flood, and spots a giant clamshell. Flying down to investigate, the Raven tries to coax out mankind into the world.

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‘Spirit of Haida Gwaii’, Bill Reid’s bronze cast, at Vancouver International Airport. The jade canoe being a symbol of the journey we take while travelling – we are all in the same boat! Is the tall figure leading us to a sheltered beach beyond the rim of the world or is he lost in a dream of his own dreamings?

Granville Island

Granville Island is famous for its extensive covered market, brewery, art galleries and craft shops, selling everything from fresh fruit and fish to loose leaf tea and jewellery.

Feel the suspense

The Capilano suspension bridge is the worlds longest suspension bridge, originally built by a man for his son to access the river for fishing! We also find a canopy walkway, a cliff top walk, and a bluegrass band in old costume entertain us whilst we eat our hot dog and fries!

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It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men’s hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from old trees, that wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit. Robert L. Stevenson
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Making new friends
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Old time music
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The cliff walk

Parks and Gardens

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Stanley Park

Stanley Park is a great place to chill out and escape the city traffic, that is if you are not tempted to run, rollerblade or cycle around it! We walk round the edge of it one day, and later in the week explore the middle bit, to escape the city heat.

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Looking back at the city from the seawall walk
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Siwash Rock, according to Native legend, a young warrior, turned to enduring stone for his courage.
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Sunset at English Bay

Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is modelled on a scholar’s home during the Ming Dynasty. We take a guided tour, with a free cup of tea, learning about Chinese symbolism and how to balance Yin and Yang in your outside ‘space’.

Famous Grouse

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Room with a view! Mountaintop restaurant, Grouse Mountain.

A short bus ride away from Downtown, we encounter a surprising array of entertainment atop the ski resort of Grouse Mountain.

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Views towards Mount Cathedral and Alaska somewhere over there….

Birds of prey, grizzly bears, hummingbirds,  Mike’s fear of heights tested in the ‘Eye of the Wind’ experience, and I (it’s my age, apparently!) try unsuccessfully to stay cool during the lumberjack display! (cue Michael Palin here in checked shirt with Mountie backing singers in Monty Python sketch).

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‘I’m a lumberjack and I’m OK, I sleep all night and I work all day…’
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The famous ‘lumberjack sandwich’ photo!
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Here’s a peaceful view to calm you down now……….

Tofino: Sophisticated Bohemian

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Main street, Tofino

Tofino, on the west coast of Vancouver Island perfectly epitomises the Pacific northwest attitude, providing enough hipsters, artisan coffee, surfing dudes, beards, dogs on ropes (and in handbags) to keep us entertained for a week. Tourism has taken over from the past trade in sea otter pelts, whale products, timber and fish, but there remains a strong sense of connection to the environment, and many unspoiled places to explore.We even have one day when it doesn’t rain and we go black bear spotting!  

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Snack stop between north and south Chesterman beaches
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View from Tofino harbour

Rim of fire

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‘Places do not belong to people. People belong to places’. Xumthoult, Saanich Nation

Between Tofino and Ucluelet (you-clue-let) is the Pacific Rim National park. Red cedar driftwood logs line the shore like piles of discarded giant cigars and dense temperate rainforest meets the crashing waves on the wild, unspoilt beaches. Bald eagles soar past us as we hike through the forest trails and explore the beaches.

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Eagle flight
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mossy view
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Stunted trees on the ‘bog’ walk
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‘a breath that draws your breath into its breathing, a heartbeat that pounds on yours, a recognition of the oneness of all things’ Emily Carr

And so it is with treasured experiences in our hearts and several full memory cards, we leave the Pacific Northwest and return homeward, to catch up with family, friends and think about going back to the world of work!

Until the next adventure: Go well, Be well, and have Fun!

Mike and Kath xx

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‘One’s destination is not a place but a new way of seeing things.’ Henry Miller

 

The Pacific Northwest: Beyond borders

North Pacific

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After our week in the city, we leave Portland to explore the Oregon coast, basing ourselves at Cannon Beach, a popular seaside town, teeming with art and craft galleries, fish, chips and burger joints and charming cedar-clad houses.

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Typical street in Cannon Beach, leading down to the sea……

From here, we hike in Ecola State Park’s Sitka spruce forests and explore the Three Capes scenic drive,  with forays into the forest to soak in the hundred shades of healing green.

The coastline is a shutterbug’s dream landscape, with frothy waves pounding the rocky outcrops, giant sea stacks and stormy skies, with golden sand and colourful rock pools at low tide.

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Seagull at Cannon Beach
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Cannon Beach clouds
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Exploring the beach
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Approaching storm
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Haystack Rock, at Cannon Beach, one of the largest coastal monoliths in the world

We stop for fish, chips and chowder at the Oregon Smoke house in Rockaway Beach, a small one-horse town, with a wild-west-faded-seaside feel about it. I don’t know whether to be flattered or weirded out when the ex-Navy tourist guide says to Mike “thank you for bringing your daughter!”

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Octopus tree, sitka spruce (with me at the back!)
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The healing forest

We end our driving tour at the famous Tillamook cheese factory, seeing the cheese rolling off the production line, then enjoying a grilled cheddar sandwich….mmmmm!

Beside the seaside

Continuing our journey north from Cannon Beach to Port Townsend, we enter Washington state, passing Aberdeen (where Kurt Cobain of thrash metal band Nirvana was born), through Indian Reservations (always with a casino on them for some reason), along the shores of sea lochs, surrounded by lush forests.

It was along the coast here that the Twilight vampire movies were made, for those of you 15-year-old girls who follow that kinda thing! We didn’t spot any vampires, but we did have some hairy drives over narrow high bridges and cliff-top roads and I even have a go at driving! Did you know it is illegal to have a delay of 5 or more vehicles behind you without ‘turning out’ (pulling over). I find it quite ironic that I could be breaking the law by going too slow!

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Quick photo stop before driving over hairy Deception Pass bridge!
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Sleepy street in Port Townsend

We stay in time-warped Port Townsend, which in its heyday was the biggest port in the U.S. outside of New York! Hard to believe now, with many of the Victorian facades falling into disrepair, despite regeneration in the 1970s. The town supports a 1950s diner and ice cream parlour, and the high street is punctuated by art galleries, boutique clothing shops, antiquarian bookstores, cafes and restaurants, with families standing in line for candy and ice cream on the first day of the school holidays!

The Bed and breakfast where we stay is a Charleston-style modern house, with an old-world feel, and we are treated to a sumptuous breakfast and afternoon tea on the porch!

Island hopping

From Port Townsend to Whidbey Island, we take the car ferry to the other side of the Puget Sound, with great views of Mount Baker and the Cascade mountain range on the way.

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Mount Baker

Whidbey Island is home to pretty coastal towns, surrounded by lush pine forest, where we enjoy lunch at Coupeville, and take a stroll around the galleries and craft shops in La Conner. I even stumble across a Zoltar fortune-telling booth, which, if you have seen the Tom Hanks film Big you will realise how excited I was to have my fortune told and my wish granted (he did say something about travelling a lot which is pretty cool!).

Mini Portlandia

Bellingham (pronounced Belling-ham) reminds us of a slightly less-eccentric slice of Portland, a green, laid-back student town, with plenty tasty cafes and brewpubs, and easy access to state parks and the San Juan Islands.

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The Baker Theatre, Bellingham

We enjoy a walk in Whatcom Falls park, visit the retro cinema and take a cruise around the San Juan Islands, even spotting some ‘stinky’ Minke whales (no orcas yet!). The San Juan Islands was the setting for David Guterson’s book/film Snow Falling on Cedars, a murder-mystery embedded in the racial tensions of Japanese internment during the second-world war. Hard to imagine those issues now in this multicultural setting, with sushi restaurants happily making a living alongside fish and chip shops and burger bars.

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San Juan Island homestead
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Lighthouse view
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Sail boat in the San Juan channel

Leaving the San Juan Islands and Bellingham, we board our Amtrak train to head north, crossing another border, to Vancouver British Columbia for the final leg of our journey!

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Moose you already!

Kath and Mike xx

 

Portland and Oregon: Good to Go.

Keep Portland Weird

Lonely Planet’s  Portland is ‘dynamic but mellow’ and this energetic town has a laid-back, alternative style, full of friendly people, and the ‘keep Portland weird’ slogan!  A haven for bearded eco-activists, outdoor types, cyclists, vegans and gardeners, with numerous craft brewpubs, coffeehouses, knitting circles and yoga classes. We feel just as comfortable in our walking clothes dining in smart restaurants as we do in the pubs or local food carts.

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View from the corner at Tasty and Alder

We are staying in the gracious 19th century  Nob Hill neighbourhood of shady trees, large wooden houses juxtaposed with colourful apartment buildings. The slightly Bohemian atmosphere with upscale boutique shopping and cafes makes it a great place to stroll and potter in amongst the dog-walkers, chiropractors, herbalists and yoga-mat carrying healthy people!

The streetcar takes us to Downtown, where we explore varied restaurants and food carts, and Powells City of Books, the largest independent bookstore in the world! I bought two books by local authors, David Guterson and Ursula le Guin, and could have spent all day here, browsing the colour-themed rooms of new and second-hand books.

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In Powell’s sci-fi room!
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Is that Mike looking for a book?

I spend an afternoon in the art museum while Mike does a ‘guided’ pub tour! The museum gives me a flavour for the Pacific Northwest culture, with emphasis on the great outdoors, (forests in particular), the native American influences and an economy built on logging and farming, following the great migrations of the 19th century after explorers Lewis and Clark  discovered a route to the West.

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Sketch of Table Rock near Medford, by Frank Vincent du Mond
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The Red House, Pissarro.

In the heart of the Old Town is the Lan Su Chinese garden. Beautiful landscaped plantings, water, stone, pear pine and bamboo and wooden pavilions provide welcome shade on another hot day. An area for rest and contemplation, poems are inscribed on the rocks and doorways, to help focus the mind.We take lunch in the traditional tea house, which was so good, even Mike was enthusing about tea by the time we left!

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City of bridges and roses

There are eight bridges across the Willamette River in Portland, the oldest being the Morrison bridge 1887. We have a ‘cruise’ down the River to learn about the bridges, and see them at their best from the water. (it reminds me of Newcastle, except Portland still has a thriving steel industry).  The most spectacular is the Steel Bridge, where the railroad deck lifts up to let a ship pass underneath.

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This is the actual submarine used in the film The Hunt for Red October with Sean Connery, for those who are interested! It is now a museum.
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Special trip for the steam paddle ship to welcome the Navy in Fleet week.

We are here during the Rose parade week, and the gardens are in full bloom for summer – though a bit of wilting in the 100 degree heat the first few days of our visit! To take advantage of the green spaces, we visit the 4-acre Rose Test garden in Washington Park, which has award-winning roses from all over the world.

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Resting in the rose garden
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Blooming lovely!

 

Across the road is the Japanese garden, where plants, stones and water are arranged to reflect the essence of nature and stimulate all our senses in a beautifully designed small space.

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We manage to see some of the Rose Parade floats on our walk Downtown to the waterfront, escaping the rain until the end of the parade!

The Wild West!

New friends Erling and Satoko, very kindly took us on two road trips this week, the highlight of our stay here in Portland! The first was to Mount Hood and the Columbia River gorge, lunch at Timberline Lodge with stops at Multnomah waterfall and Smith Rock desert state park – so many contrasting environments, from pine-forested ski slopes, through Warm Springs reservation to the ochre soil and towering rock pinnacles of the desert, golden in the evening light.

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View of the Vista House and Columbia River gorge
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On the drive to Mount Hood
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Snowboarding tracks at Mount Hood
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Timberline Lodge, built in the 1930s by the Works dept to creat jobs for the unemployed, and used in the film The Shining with Jack Nicholson
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With Erling and Satoko
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The magnificent Multnomah Falls, the fourth highest waterfall in the US
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Evening light at Smith Rock State park
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Imposing rocks at Smith Rock
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The Wild West?

On our second road trip, we explore the vineyards of Dundee, in the Willamette Valley, driving past orchards and hazelnut trees, and enjoy great conversation, good humour and more fabulous food!

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Vineyard gardens at Lange
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Cheers!
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Enjoying a glass (or two?)

So we are ‘good to go’ as we swap the train for a Corolla and  head further west to the Oregon coast for our scenic drive up to Washington state, and say cheerio to Portland, we have loved every day!

Mike and Kath xx

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‘Peace of the Roses’

Thought for travellers everywhere:  ‘There’s no wrong way. Whatever gets you there.’                                                                             East of the Mountains, David Guterson.

 

 

 

 

 

Coromandel: Cook, Kayaks and Cathedrals

What’s in a name?

We leave the hobbit-botherers down in Matamata to continue our adventures in the Coromandel, the north-east part of north island. Our lodge is a luxurious wooden cabin, surrounded by sub-tropical planting with great views of the starry night sky and only a few steps to fabulous GF pizza and craft beer!

The Coromandel takes its name surprisingly from India! The HMS Coromandel was the first European ship bringing settlers to the region, and was named after India’s Coromandel Coast.

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On the walk to Cathedral Cove

Mercury Bay – to boldly go

It was Captain James Cook (I know, not Jim Kirk, but sounds similar!) who named Mercury Bay back in 1769, with HMS Endeavour to view the transit of Mercury across the sun, and there is a plethora of Cook-a-bilia to explore in Whitianga museum.

Whitianga reminds me of a small Cornish fishing village, a short foot-ferry ride from Purangi, the town hugs Mercury Bay with a small harbour and the usual craft shops, pubs and cafes. What is unusual though is the ‘Lost Spring’ spa, tree-fringed sculpted thermal pools surrounded by an enchanting garden.

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Found friends at the Lost Spa (it’s a non-alcoholic daiquiri!)

In hot water

We continue the relaxing theme and take our free spade down to ‘Hot Water Beach’ to dig our own spa pool. For two hours either side of low tide, hot water (up to 60 degrees in some places) bubbles up through the sand, and we lie in our own steamy ‘pool’ while ocean waves pound the shore only metres away! Mind you, by the time we have worked hard to dig a hole big enough to lie in, we need a spa for our aching arms and shoulders! (And don’t even think about how long it takes to wash the sand out of one’s swimwear!).

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Steaming sands on Hot Water Beach

Barefoot beachbums

We explore the beautiful white sand beaches, magnificent rock formations and crystal-clear water of Cathedral Cove both on foot and by kayak. This area is a protected marine reserve, and we see lots of fish, birds and even some New Zealand fur seals (which are actually sea lions).

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Impressive rock formations at Cathedral Cove
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Cathedral Cove arch
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With some intrepid U.S. travellers

The majestic archway of Cathedral Cove links two magical coves, and we land at one for a snack and coffee on our kayak trip. I especially appreciated the part where our guide Shaun dived into the surf to ‘guide’ our kayaks in to the beach (bit of a Daniel Craig as James Bond moment – Mike says it’s my age!)

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Shaun with his famous cappuchinos!!

We have often wondered why a lot of locals walk around barefoot, even in the paved streets and tramping tracks here in New Zealand. Shaun explains that New Zealanders don’t wear shoes because ‘they are careful not to drop their beer glasses’! There we are then!

The 309 road

The Coromandel is not just about magnificent beaches and spas though, and we take some time out to drive the scenic gravel road from Whitianga to Coromandel town, discovering Kauri groves, waterfalls and even a spiritual water garden on the way!

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Waterfall at the spiritual water gardens

Singapore Sling-back

We enjoy a relaxing couple of days in Singapore on our return trip. The pool and the galleries are a great way to escape the stifling heat, and we wish we had spent longer here.

Singapore is a vibrant and friendly place, a very clean city, proud of all its cultural influences, yet at the same time having a comforting ‘Britishness’ about it.

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A Walk along the waterfront
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Colourful Clarke Quay
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The Marina Bay hotel, with its boat-shaped roof terrace

Writing this from home, with the sun shining and the birds singing in our small garden, I recall a poem from the Chinese garden in the Gardens by the Bay:

‘Seeing the trees in the courtyard brings joy to my face.                                                                     I lean on the south window and let my pride expand,                                                                          I consider how easy it is to be content with a little space’   

The Return: A Rhapsody, by Tao Yuaming

First Class Trip!

It is not easy to summarise all of our experiences and reflections of our three months in New Zealand, though hopefully the blog portrays a personal narrative, rather than a guidebook view!

We have loved seeing all the wonderful wilderness, spending time with old friends and making some new ones, pursuing our passion for photography and keeping fit with some active sports along the way!

It has been a real privilege to have had time to step outside the camouflage of routine of our working lives, learning more about ourselves in the process.

Mike and Kath xx

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Back at St Pancras Station, London, with complimentary Queen’s birthday cake!

 

 

 

 

 

Whanganui and Taupo: Land of the Rings

Boots on the Ground

To start our journey through ‘Middle Earth’ we take our little Corolla on the Interislander ferry from Picton to Wellington. No gum boots jokes here – Wellington is the  cool capital city of New Zealand, a vibrant port and friendly city. We stop here for a couple of hours to visit the Gallipoli centenary exhibition at the Te Papa museum.

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Larger-than-life lieutenant

The exhibition tells the story of eight ordinary New Zealanders who found themselves in extraordinary circumstances at Gallipoli, each frozen in a moment of time, on a monumental scale – 2.4 times human size. The huge size of the figures brings you closer to their story, the intricate detail almost overpowering in its emotional intensity.

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A doctor mourns his patient

The figures were created by the Weta Workshop, who worked on the Lord of the Rings movies (tenuous link here, though I am sure Tolkien had the futility of war on his mind when he wrote his epic fantasy tale).

An Unforget-a-bull Journey

Driving away from the ‘big smoke’ we stop in Bulls, a town which has distinguished itself  by giving quirky names to all its businesses and buildings. McDonalds is re-named ‘Consume-a-Bull’, and the Church is ‘Forgive-a-Bull’.

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The police station in Bulls, ‘Const-a-Bull’

Culture Club

Whanganui (or Wanganui, whichever you prefer) blends Victorian and Edwardian streets with a rich Maori heritage, both cultures drawing life from the renowned Whanganui River, New Zealand’s longest navigable river.

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View of Whanganui from the memorial tower

Ko au te awa, ko te awa ko au. I am the river, the river is me.

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The Whanganui River, from its origins on Mt Tongariro

The Whanganui River Road to Pipiriki takes a leisurely 4 hours, as we explore the industrial and cultural heritage, travelling back in time, passing Maori villages (kainga) and marae, interspersed with small farms.

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The cafe at Matahiwi – goat pie, anyone?
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Miller’s cottage at Kawana flour mill, 1854
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Behind the marae at Koriniti
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Meeting houses and museum at Ranana
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Friendly local youths painting the church fence at Ranana
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Carving at Ranana

At the Jerusalem convent, we learn about the good works of Mother Aubert, who is currently being beatified as a saint (a lengthy process, involving numerous meetings of very venerable people and no less than two posthumous miracles!).

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Jerusalem (Hiruharama) viewed from the river road
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In the rosary way garden

The River Queen

We were lucky after some heavy storms, to be able to do a canoe trip on the Whanganui, where the film The River Queen was filmed  (Kiefer Sutherland, Cliff Curtis and Samantha Morton), and other scenes from The Hobbit (dwarves in barrels etc). The river journey is actually one of the ‘Great Walks’ of New Zealand, though the whole thing is five days, we enjoy our  ‘taster’ day.

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Mike Mears….
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Quick pit stop for a snack?
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Back on the ‘road’ again, with my lopsided seat!
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Lush vegetation grows down the cliffs to the water’s edge

Parents of the Land – The Tongariro Crossing

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Looking back at Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom) and Red Crater

Heralded as ‘the best one-day walk in New Zealand’ by Lonely Planet, we feel a warm glow of satisfaction when we complete the 22 kilometre hike past volcanic craters, steaming vents and emerald lakes, watched by the barren peaks of Ngauruhoe, Ruapehu and Tongariro (the ‘parents of the land’ for local Maori). At the end of our long day we are very grateful for a bath in our lodge and the muscle rub from Wanaka lavender farm!

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Early morning bus at ‘stupid o’clock’ to the start of the track
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The Emerald Lakes
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Yes, that is me, taking in the awesome view!
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Looking back towards Mt Taranaki in the far distance, a truly ‘Mordor’ landscape
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Mike on the descent through tussock slopes
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Yay! We reach the end of our trek after walking through podocarp-hardwood forest, a final contrast on the long descent

Thermal Wonderland

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Orakei Korako, ‘the place of adorning’

A day trip from our base in Taupo, the thermal park at Orakei Korako is described by the guide books as a ‘hidden valley’ and is a fascinating geothermal area, with silica terraces, boiling pools and geothermal caves surrounded by native bush to explore. Even the little ferry journey to reach the park is an adventure!

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Up close with boiling mud pools
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Beautiful forest of kamahi trees
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The silica terrace is surrounded by boiling pools

Some of the other highlights we enjoyed around Taupo…..

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Mosaic living room

Matamata – home of the Shire!

It’s not hard for us to imagine Bilbo, Frodo and Gandalf here in Hobbiton, as we enjoy a locally brewed South Farthing beverage in the Green Dragon Inn and explore the movie set of The Hobbit and The LOTR trilogies. Fans will be impressed to know that the road leading to Hobbiton was called ‘Buckland Road’ before Sir Peter Jackson discovered it!

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View of Bag End, with the artificial tree (the leaves were imported from Tawain, hand sprayed then wired on!)
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A couple of Proudfoots!
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The plants and gardens are lovingly cared for
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Outside Bilbo’s house, Bag End.
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Our sumptuous evening banquet, in the Green Dragon Inn.
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Outside the Green Dragon Inn
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Magical reflections

And so we leave you to continue on our ‘unexpected journey’ to the Coromandel, our final NZ destination. Until then, some of Gandalf’s wise words for you to ponder….

All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.”

Mike and Kath x

Nelson and Marlborough: The WOW Factor

My Angel is a Centrefold

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Nelson Cathedral, with marble from Takaka Hill, stands on the site of an old Maori Pa

Apart from the occasional  wizard in a pointy hat on the high street, Nelson is a fairly mainstream alternative sort of city, if a place can be both at the same time! Suited office workers walk next to dreadlocked, tattooed backpackers. Both patronise the organic food carts and cafes, alongside retirees out for afternoon tea and scones (the Devonshire cream tea is alive and popular here). And for all the Yorkshire folk, ‘scone’ rhymes with ‘John’ here!

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A view down Nelson’s main street

We like to stroll around the streets to get a feel for  the ‘groove’ of a place, and Nelson is great for that, not too big to walk around easily. Plenty of parks and walking tracks to explore.

You know you have been travelling in a country for some time when you need a haircut, and we both get a much needed trim, and celebrate with a night at the theatre to see some stand up comedy (including Wellington’s DJ Vinyl Burns, who produces slapstick and dodgy magic tricks in the Tommy Cooper style.

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The NZ sense of humour often seen in advertising!

W.O.W!

We continue our exploration of weird at the World of Wearable Art museum, which combines art and the human form, using extraordinary materials, from wood, to glass, metal and even suitcases!  Checkout the YouTube video by googling ‘world of wearable art 2015’ if interested to see more.

And for the boys, they also have a classic car collection…

Lost and Found

Over Easter weekend, most things close, and alcohol sales are prohibited. You can get a drink if buying a meal, so we visit the Founders Park, a sort of Beamish with a train ride instead of a tram. Good fun looking at all the exhibits and old buildings which were transported here to construct the outdoor museum (though the gift shop is closed, being the holidays and all!).

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To infinity and beyond!
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I’m  behind you!
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One of the many reconstructed buildings

Next door to the Founders is the Japanese gardens where we meet two Japanese girls and take each other’s photo!

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In the Japanese gardens

Sweet As!

The Nelson region is famed for its food culture. Mike enjoys craft beers at Eddy Line in Richmond, and I have a lavender and rosemary flavoured chicken pizza! We sample many gastronomic delights at the Sweet As cafe and a local internet cafe, fortifying us for some vinyard tours around Blenheim.

Dead centre of town

For our walking, we base ourselves in Picton Tombstone Backpackers  next to the cemetery, and apart from the three cats (which we are allergic to) and the all night ferry freight terminal opposite our window, it is very comfy with mostly French, English, Australian and German travellers with the odd stray Irish man talking blarney at us when we are trying to cook!

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Our ‘resting place’ for a few days

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Dead centre of town

Sounds good!

“When the four sons of Rangi the Sky Father travelled to the heavens to meet Rangi’s wife Papatuanuku, the Earth Mother, their canoe capsized on the journey home. The canoe became the South Island, and the Marlborough Sounds are the prow of the canoe.”

The Marlborough Sounds are where sea and land are intertwined in peaceful harmony now, in contrast to their turbulent past, where whaling stations flourished and local Maori were locked in battle with invaders from the north!

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Marlborough Sounds from the Snout track

We enjoy a ramble down the Snout Track and tramping on the Queen Charlotte Track from Mistletoe Bay to Lochmara Bay is one of the highlights of our tour.

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The road signs are helpful, if not subtle!
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Ready for some tramping
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Mistletoe Bay
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On the way to Lochmara
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Labyrinth in nature. We saw one of these in the Cathedral and often in the grounds of smaller churches. Unlike a maze, it has only one path and no dead ends. Generally there are three stages to the walking meditation: releasing on the way in, receiving in the centre, and taking back out into the world what you have received.
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Lochmara Bay
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Giant tree ferns line the track

Kayaking in the Sounds is magical, as we glide past beech trees and ponga ferns, with bellbirds singing their melodious chorus and kingfishers flitting among the branches.

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Quick rest stop for squash and biscuits
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getting close to the wildlife
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Lazy afternoon for this NZ fur seal (which is actually a sealion incorrectly named!)

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First mates!

Leaving the Sounds, we catch the interislander ferry for Wellington, continuing our journey in North Island, where we swap kayaks and forest for canoes, hobbits and Mount Doom……but more on that in the next blog!

As a prelude to our Hobbiton experience, we can’t resist visiting the maker of the One Ring, Jens Hanson, based in Nelson!

See ya later! Mike and Kath xx

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Peace, maaan!

 

Golden Bay and Tasman: Sans Souci!

Golden Bay: Golden memories

The region of Golden Bay and Abel Tasman national park is well known for its idyllic unspoiled beaches and tramping tracks in the Kahurangi national park, which we were keen to explore!

Our drive to Golden Bay included a stomach churning meander over Takaka hill! Life is different ‘over the hill’, a slower pace, where we can take time to slow down and relaaax!

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View from Takaka hill

We stock up on the local ‘raw’ milk (remember the cream on the top of the bottle?) and fresh organic fruit and veg from local farms. I acquire a new liking for Nashi pears (cross between an apple and a pear) a juicy, crunchy experience, and delicious cumin cheese! 

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Abandoned farm on the road to Takaka
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Stall selling ‘Nashi’ pears 

Takaka is a bit like Glastonbury, an alternative place with a high concentration of barefooted, yoga-panted, dread-locking alternative lifestylers!  For two people who met at a festival (in the ‘mystical chai experience tent’ I might add), it is our kinda place! We spend some quality time with friends in Pohara and enjoy some great walking, superb veggie food and relax at the local spa.

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Devangi, Mike, me and Marjo at the spa cafe in Pohara
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Afternoon tea, anyone?
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Delicious food at Sans Souci restaurant (means ‘no worries’ in French!), which has a plant-filled mosaic bathroom and composting toilets!
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We arrived a day late for the annual naked bike ride through Pohara! A new slant on freewheeling!! Hope they remembered to apply the factor 50!!

 

 

Bush and Beach

We enjoy a picnic at Paton’s beach, a popular retirement area, and enjoy a paddle along the sand…

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Picnic at Paton’s Beach

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Te Waikoropupu Springs (place of the dancing sands), is the largest freshwater Spring system in New Zealand, and are sacred (wahi tapu) to Maori.

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Pupu springs colours

 

 

The Pupu Hydro Walkway, reminded us of the levada walks in Madeira, with superb views of the valley and hills below, though sturdy handrails meant not much vertigo here! Even met a couple of DOC workers who showed us the worlds biggest moss which grows up to 5 cms tall!

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The Pupu hydro walkway
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Enjoying the view
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 New Zealand native bushland

 

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Probably the tallest moss in the world!

Mike enjoys a walk along the beach whilst I view the Spit from the saddle with Cape Farewell horse treks, crossing the Old Man Range. The stables’ claim to fame was supplying the black horse for Gandalf (Sir Ian Mcellan) for the Hobbit movies!

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At Wharariki Beach, a jumble of caves, islets, rock pools and sand dunes
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Spectacular Wharariki beach

 

 

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View of Farewell Spit, one of the longest sandbars in the world, from horseback!
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With Andy, an ex-racehorse!

We enjoy a tough climb up Gibbs hill on part of the Abel Tasman track, starting at Wainui Bay.

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Top end of Abel Tasman track

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At the top of Gibbs Hill! Yay!
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Tramping the coastline
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A shy but curious Weka

A shorter walk to Wainui Falls is still a spectacular scenic ramble, and good for us when we are still recovering from the steep Gibbs Hill climb!

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Wainui Falls

 

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Marjo and me enjoying the view on the Wainui falls walk

Abel Tasman: Adventurers and Artisans

Leaving Takaka behind, we continue exploring the Abel Tasman coastline basing ourselves at Marahau, less of a town and more of a collection of holiday homes and water taxi/kayaking businesses. Ideally situated for walking or sea kayaking, we continue our adventures! Named after Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, the area has a tropical island feel about it, though poor Abel didn’t stay long following an experience with some angry natives, thankfully the people are more friendly now than they were in the 17th century!

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Beach and bush
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Crossing Oneahuti Bay
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Tree ferns abound in the lush forest
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Split Apple rock

 

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Light on the track

On one of our rainy days, we had a drive round Upper Moutere area, exploring the galleries, pottery studios and craft shops, culminating in a fantastic day at Mapua Easter fair (the biggest one day event on South Island!).  Mike enjoys the craft beers and fine wines, and I discover craft chocolate and artisan ginger beer!

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One of the ‘art’ galleries
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Mapua Easter fair 
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With Marjo and Devangi with their stall at the fair

The small port of Mapua is famous for its food and craft beer. I think if you use the words ‘craft’, ‘artisan’ or ‘organic’ with respect to any food or beverage product, you can make a good living around these parts!

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Mapua harbour

A lot of the Upper Moutere region was settled by German Lutherans in the 1840s, who built a church, a pub and started a school. English settlers joined them to dredge the swampy ground for farming. Though many farms failed due to flooding, there are a few pubs and churches which continue in the German tradition, and we find many graves in the churchyards inscribed in German.

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German Lutheran church at Sarau
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Artisan vinyards flourish alongside fruit and hop farms. At Neudorf vinyard. Apparently the Chardonnay was very good!

Continuing on our culture and craft theme, we take the art trail around the town of Motueka, to see more examples of public art, and some interesting buildings.

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Colourful cafe in Motueka
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Bench outside the information centre

 

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Senior citizens club (next to the local school, across the road from the probation service!)
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Apple and pear warehouse, Mapua.

That’s all for now folks, we will catch up with you in Marlborough Sounds…. enjoy your journey, wherever you are.

Small thought from the Pohara Spa to leave you with:

“What you think you create, what you feel you attract, what you imagine you become” Buddha.

 

Kath and Mike xx

 

 

Tekapo, Mount Cook and Hanmer: Hot springs, cool mountains

Tekapo: Pictures of a floating world

We leave the Lakes District for a few days in Lake Tekapo, in the Mackenzie district. On the way, we pass familiar tree ferns and New Zealand beech surrounding the road, then to more open grasslands of the Lindis Pass.

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On the road to Lake Tekapo
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Dry grasslands of Lindis Pass

Lake Tekapo and Lake Punakaki are famous for their other-worldly turquoise colour.

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The glorious blue colour of Lake Punakaki is due to light reflecting off the alluvial silt, deposited by glaciers many moons ago

Generating hydroelectric power, Lake Tekapo, like Queenstown, is a ski resort in winter, but still buzzing with summer tourists and backpackers in March. We had to wait ages for this few seconds gap in the tourists to get this shot below, and in true teacher style, Mike actually ‘herded’ a coachload of tourists down to where we were standing to stop them walking into the shot, saying “best photo from this place!”

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Church of the Good Shepherd next to Lake Tekapo at sunset
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View of Lake Tekapo from our room at the Youth Hostel
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Sunset at Lake Tekapo
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Collie memorial to all the NZ sheepdogs

Staying out late for the Dark Skies astronomy tour at Cowan’s observatory, we marvel at the Milky Way, spot the Southern cross, Jupiter, Mars and the odd nebula or two. One of those experiences you can’t really photograph, as the light from your camera affects your night vision and it takes ten minutes for your eyes to adjust again!

After getting back at 1am from the stargazing experience, I was in much need of my beauty sleep, so the sunrise photos the next day were taken by Mike (who normally isn’t a morning person!).

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Lake Tekapo sunrise, with the Church of the Good Shepherd

Aoraki Mt Cook

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On the road to Mount Cook

Mount Cook has changed a lot since we were here eight years ago, with motels and more eating places, not just the Hermitage hotel and the YHA. The treks now have new steps and even flushing toilets at the start of the walks!

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Stroll in the Tasman Glacier valley
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Mount Cook Lily
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One of the ‘blue’ pools, which are now actually green due to algae (no longer fed by glacial meltwater due to global warming, but by rainwater)
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Another ‘green’ blue lake

Mike explores the DOC centre and I have a sobering read of the books of remembrance for all the climbers who have died on the mountain in tragic accidents (many were instructors). Each page retells the fateful events accompanied by a poignant photograph, and I recall a book by Rosie Thomas I recently read called White, about an ill-fated Everest expedition, and also the film ‘Sherpa’, which looks like it might be a dramatic and politically emotive movie.

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The saddle of Mount Cook viewed from the Tasman Glacier walk

Inside the DOC centre, I come across an apt quote from Bruce Jenkinson (1972) which sums up the feeling of this majestically beautiful but wild place,

” Lord, what a place. A huge inclined triangle of ice, brittle, featureless, cold and so high. Haunched to the sea and the incessant, ruthless wind”

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Aoraki

Hanmer Springs

On the road to Hanmer we have a lunch stop at a little town called Oxford, with another lovely cafe and more gluten free cakes to sample!

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The old post office at Oxford

We enjoy reading the local newsletter and of particular interest to Mike is the ‘Oxford Community Men’s Shed’ meetings among the local clubs and society listings!

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Bridge to Hanmer

The small spa town of Hanmer has an alpine village feel, reflected in the weatherboarded buildings and the surrounding forests.

Mike has his birthday treat with a long forest walk, then a few hours at the thermal pools. The Spa compex is a fantastic outdoor thermal retreat, with natural hot waters heated between 38 and 42 degrees, including aqua therapy pools. Aahhhh! Very relaxing!

After cooking at our hostel for a few evenings, we treat ourselves to a delicious ‘birthday’ curry at Malabar Asian fusion restaurant.

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Malabar curry

Many types of trees here, both coniferous and deciduous, with planting from Europe, Asia and the Americas, as well as native specimens. The forests were planted after the first world war, providing work for returning soldiers and local prisoners.

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Treescape

When it was too hot for walking we had a round of crazy golf and relaxed in our wonderful hostel, Hanmer Backpackers, run by Dutch and Japanese husband and wife Tristan and Yoko. Feeling more like a Swiss mountain chalet than a hostel, we are treated to freshly baked cakes each day, ground coffee and tea on tap, with plenty space for lounging around, and even twenty minutes each day on the professional massage chair!!

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Losing at crazy golf! Hammer backpackers is the wooden chalet building behind my shoulder!
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The Anglican church at Hanmer

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Rare lenticular cloud formations over Hanmer. Often mistaken for UFO’s, they occur where there are mountain ranges and intermingling air currents

Chatting to a genuinely awesome Dutch couple in our hostel (they were camping of course), who are semi-retired and doing a seven year trip around the world, in their boat, spending their children’s inheritance, we suddenly felt a bit less awesome than we had previously, but nevertheless inspired!

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Mr and Mrs ‘A’

See you soon, next stop Golden Bay and the Abel Tasman coast,

Mike and Kath X

 

Wanaka: Worth aspiring to.

Pioneer spirit

Leaving Queenstown, we drive up the ski area for amazing views from Coronet Peak over the Remarkables mountain range and the farmland in the valleys. A spectacular sight!

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View from Coronet Peak, on road from Queenstown to Wanaka, with view of The Remarkables
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Viewpoint on the road to Cardrona, with Arrowtown in the distance

We stop off at the Cardrona Hotel for a restorative beverage on our drive from Queenstown, and take in the heritage buildings and beer garden, which was being prepared for an afternoon wedding.

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The historic Cardrona Hotel
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The old school house, now a gallery and shop

Cardrona is the area where I take a Western style horse trek later in the week, on an Appaloosa horse called Cheesy and pretend I am Clint Eastwood for a while, being followed by inquisitive rabbits and falcons! The horses don’t have shoes, as they never go on the metalled roads. Being Appaloosa, they are very sure footed, and have a lovely smooth canter.

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The happy horses at Backcountry Saddle Expeditions
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Western style ride with a’Cheesy’ mare!

Finding our turangawaewae

Lake Wanaka is New Zealand’s fourth largest lake, and sparkling on the edge of town, provides a great stepping stone for exploring Mount Aspiring national park. With active glaciers, hanging valleys and the Southern Alps, it feels like Switzerland, though the alpine flora is unique to New Zealand, and the tree ferns a bit of a contrast!

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View of Lake Wanaka and town from the war monument
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Native flax growing alongside the lake

Wanaka itself is our favourite town so far! As the Maori say, it is our ‘turangawaewae’ (our place to stand). Smaller and less cosmopolitan than Queenstown, attracting a slightly older demographic, but not too big, we have everything we need in this Goldilocks town – organic local food, great bars and restaurants, lovely lakeside walks and even a retro cinema.

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Classic Lake Wanaka

The Paradiso Cinema is a true retro experience, appropriate for our viewing of Brooklyn, set in 1950s New York, with a variety of sofas, airplane and bus seats to choose from, and an interval with freshly baked (and gf) cookies to munch on!

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The car is half in half outside the building!
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A good spot to write a few postcards….

For a mind-bending experience we visit Puzzling World, get lost in the maze and have fun in the illusion rooms and the Ames forced perspective room, and experience some of the illusion techniques used in the LOTR trilogy.

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Can you see the optical illusion?
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Big Mike in the Ames room
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Hobbit Mike in the Ames room!
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Interesting loos!
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The Roman toilet! ‘Pass the sponge please!?’

Plenty great food here, from pulled pork burgers at Alivate, to an authentic curry at The Spice Room, though we are predominantly self catering of course! Really!

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Enjoying a beverage at Kai Whakapai

Exploring Mount Aspiring national park is a must, and we take in the walk to Rob Roy glacier, which included a hairy drive through several fords along yet another back country gravel road through the Matukituki valley. Our white car is looking rather beige now….

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Can you see the glacier……?
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Ready for my one-legged trek up to the Rob Roy Glacier!
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On the swing bridge to the Glacier walk
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Not that I am obsessed with toilets or anything, but this must be one of the remotest drop loos ever!

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Braided river at the end of our walk

More clear water and awesome scenery on our cycle ride by Lake Wanaka along the Outlet Track. A few bruises but worth it!

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On the Outlet Track route
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Last of the lupins in bloom
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Cycling by the south side of the lake

On our journey to Lake Tekapo, we stop off at the lavender farm to stock up on muscle rub for our feet! Much needed after all that tramping!

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Giant bumbles enjoying the last of the lavender nectar

So, with fond memories, we leave Wanaka behind and head for Lake Tekapo and Mount Cook….and leave you with a thought from the back of a car…..

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Mike and Kath x

 

 

 

 

 

 

Queenstown: Summer in February

The big smoke

Queenstown feels like a buzzing cosmopolitan town, with Chinese New Year celebrations in full swing and coach loads of tourists exploring the ‘honeypots’ of the Southland.

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Graffiti on a campervan

The town itself still has a certain charm, with the SS Earnslaw steam ship running sailings across Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables mountain range framing the sky. As long as we avoid the permanent queues for the famous Black Angus Fergburgers, there are great places to eat and sit back and enjoy the ambiance after a day adventuring in accessible wilderness!

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SS Earnslaw coming into Queenstown harbour
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Clear view of the Remarkables

 

Four seasons in one week

It is true what they say about the ever-changing weather here in New Zealand, though the odd rainy day is a good excuse for catching up on washing, a spot of yoga at Nadi Wellness Centre, going to the cinema, vineyard touring or just general touristy browsing in the shops. We heard on the news there have been new earthquakes in Christchurch and Invercargill, so are just grateful we are not affected here!

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New Kiwi friend at the harbour front
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On the road to Glenorchy

Golden moments

Great fun for a few days meeting up with Mike’s sister Cathryn and husband Adrian, who are here for a few weeks to celebrate Cathryn’s fiftieth birthday, and we ate great food and had a visit to the charming gold mining town of Arrowtown.

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The Remarkables!
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Four satisfied patrons of VKnow restaurant
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Old gold mining cottages at Arrowtown

Activity capital of New Zealand!

Queenstown is famous for being the adventure capital for all things thrilling, and indeed it is here on the Shotover River that the first bungee jump was made. Feeling we are a bit old for the skydiving and bungeeing (is that even a word?), we entertain ourselves with less risky activities. I enjoy some horse riding in Glenorchy, which was more like ‘horse surfing’ due to the constant horizontal rain, though did see a bit of the Lord of the Rings (LOTR) scenery….wading through rivers was a ‘first’ for me, and did feel as though we were floating away at times!

 

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On the road to Glenorchy
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With Manuel after the river wading….
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Sun comes out at Dart River Stables AFTER my ride!!

Mike took the more sedate option of winery touring, and think had a more ‘dry’ experience than me, weather wise that is!

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We both braved the rain again for a jet boat ride up Dart River, and enjoyed an afternoon at the local cinema watching the award winning The Revenant (did put me off riding for a bit, after that scene involving a horse, a tree and a cliff!).

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Who are those two at the front?
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99% pure waters of the Dart River
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Dart River-source of greenstone which is traditionally precious to the Maori

Lots of Awesome people running in trainers with a small bottle of water strapped to their backs, whilst we are tramping around Moke Lake with a full day pack feeling not quite Awesome enough yet……

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Moke Lake
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Moke Lake view
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Looking back towards the campsite and riding stables at Moke Lake

Awesomeness training!

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Day walk on the Routeburn Track – a good 10 mile hike up to the “falls” hut and back!
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Blue glacial waters on the Routeburn
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Crossing another swing bridge – 2 persons at a time please!
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Sandwich stop view!
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Approaching the Falls Hut
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Lush Beech forest on the Routeburn Track
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Another swing bridge
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Routeburn view

Because we’re worth it!

What better way to relax after a long days tramping than to sit back in a hot tub and pick out the Southern Cross in the night sky and treat ourselves to more yummy food?

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So we have had a varied two weeks here in Queenstown, and do feel like we are becoming a bit more fit with our outdoor adventures……picked up our new hire car and off to Wanaka next to explore the Lakes District and more of Mount Aspiring National Park.

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The Awesomes 🙂