A short train ride from Bellingham, and we arrive in Vancouver, spotting bald eagles and herons on our journey along the coast, which was an amazing start to our Canada experience, and our exploration of Vancouver and Vancouver Island.
Reflections on Vancouver
Looking back at the city from Canada Place waterfront
Although we love the outdoors, our interest in photography was rekindled by the interesting and contrasting architecture here in Vancouver. Dramatic cityscapes both by day and night, with clear unpolluted sky as a backdrop.
the steam clock in Gastown
The 10 sails of Canada Place, one for each province/territory, with a cruise ship docked
night view of Gastown from the Lookout!
night view of the Lookout! tower from Gastown
Views of the city from the Lookout!, and night time Gastown above. Below, images of the Art Deco style Marine building, once owned by Ireland’s Guinness family.
double-revolving doors at the main entrance
inside the elevator, inlaid walls
jutting ships prows house lights on the balcony
the upside down ship, placed in respect to God, to symbolise the imperfection of Man
nautical-themed carvings
The entrance, with bronze castings of starfish, crabs and seashells
Old and New at Canada Place
The Vancouver Lookout! viewing tower, at the Harbour Centre
The seven storey brushed aluminium pendulum swings gracefully through the HSBC atrium!
The coliseum-style colonnade of Vancouver Central Library
inside the library arcaade
the words don’t fit the picture
Sea planes at Coal HarbourWalking down Canada Place
Moosing you!
Live long and prosper!
on the walk around Coal Harbour
fancy houseboat
Colourful containers at the dock side near Gastown
Gastown is home to many heritage buildings and a host of good pubs, as well as the famous ‘steam clock’ which plays a tune every 15 minutes.
Outside the boot shop in Gastown
View towards Gastown and Chinatown from Vancouver Lookout!
crowd outside Water Street’s steam clock, which strikes every 15 minutes
Steam clock in full swing/steam!
Gastown still has many 19th century buildings, and grew up around ‘Gassy Jack’s saloon
Triangular building, Maple Street square
Old and new
A nurse sculpture on Cathedral Place building
Building detail on Robson Street
Flag is up on Canada Day
Downtown city ‘forest’
Food
I know I have raved on about all the delicious food we have had on this trip so far in our travels across Oregon and Washington, but Vancouver is no exception to delicious gastronomy and I had to include a wee taster below!
David’s tea!
delicious frittata, with GF sausage and bread at Acme
restaurant atop Grouse Mountain
View from Grouse Mountain
Noodles at Granville Island market
small snack at Acme
GF key lime tart, SoBo, Tofino
turning Japanese at Kuma, Tofino
Jazz it up
There is plenty music here during jazz festival week. We were a bit baffled by the fact you cannot stand up in a bar and have a drink though. This is because most pubs have a licence primarily for food, therefore people need to be seated to ‘eat’ and it is illegal to stand! As a result most of the pubs look empty and it isn’t an easy way to socialise, unless you are sat at the bar talking to the bartender!
live music at the Art Gallery cafe on Canada Day
Downtown free jazz
On Canada Day, there is a market for all things marijuana, complete with hash brownies, karma cookies and magic chocolates! Hipsters intermingle with friendly police, everyone wearing red and white. A very unique spectacle!
all things marijuana…
magic chocolates anyone?
Drawn towards the spirit
The Bill Reid gallery is an interesting blend of Haida first nations spiritualism with modern techniques in jewellery, printing, wood carving and graphics, complete with inspirational poetry and spiritual authenticity. Bill Reid’s mother was from Haida Gwaii (previously the Queen Charlotte Islands), and his work continued the traditions of the native peoples of the Northwest, who have lived in this area for over 12 thousand years, bringing this culture to a wider audience.
detail from large totem in Bill Reid gallery
Whale carving
Carved Bentwood box. Deep carving is viewed by the Haida people as one of the “technologies of enchantment”, combining the spiritual and the physical worlds. The four sides are composed of one piece of cedar, which is notched in three places, steamed, then bent to form the box before the base is attached.
Vancouver Art Galllery holds the works of Emily Carr, who developed her modernist style during the 20s and 30s, travelling extensively in the north west, including Alaska and Vancouver Island. In the 1920s poets and artists associated with Surrealism began to collect Northwest Coast objects – works of art in which the sacred, the aesthetic and the practical were united. This movement influenced Carr, who began to develop her own style, painting expressions of her unconscious, rather than the realist style she had initially favoured.
Wood Interior, 1935
Indian Raven, 1912
Gaining a new appreciation for expressionist and surrealist art at Vancouver Art Museum
At the Museum of Anthropology, Mike discovers a love for the carving of Papua New Guinea, and we marvel at the extensive collections of native artifacts from all over the world. The museum was cleverly designed so the carved poles stand in front of the glass walls, with the green landscape behind them, as near as possible to their natural ‘habitat’.
Reconstructed traditional Haida longhouses, with crest poles, representing the spiritual ancestry of the tribes and clans, often symbolised with carvings of the bear, eagle, raven, wolf and frog.
carvings from the Papua New Guinea exhibit
Bill Reid’s distinctive carving
‘transformation’ is a key theme in the carving
Wolf and man
an example of Coast Salish weaving
totem face
Great Hall of the Museum
Taking pride of place , ironically above the site of old gun emplacements, is Bill Reid’s yellow cedar carving of the Haida creation story ‘The Raven and the First Men’. The Raven is flying around Haida Gwaii after the great flood, and spots a giant clamshell. Flying down to investigate, the Raven tries to coax out mankind into the world.
‘Spirit of Haida Gwaii’, Bill Reid’s bronze cast, at Vancouver International Airport. The jade canoe being a symbol of the journey we take while travelling – we are all in the same boat! Is the tall figure leading us to a sheltered beach beyond the rim of the world or is he lost in a dream of his own dreamings?
Granville Island
Granville Island is famous for its extensive covered market, brewery, art galleries and craft shops, selling everything from fresh fruit and fish to loose leaf tea and jewellery.
The brewery had delicious burgers as well as beer
colourful concrete factory
afternoon nap
Granville Island
Granville Island market
market view
propelling an optimistic image
View of the city from Granville Island
Feel the suspense
The Capilano suspension bridge is the worlds longest suspension bridge, originally built by a man for his son to access the river for fishing! We also find a canopy walkway, a cliff top walk, and a bluegrass band in old costume entertain us whilst we eat our hot dog and fries!
the Capilano suspension bridge
Not as scary as it looks
Harris hawk
maple light
It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men’s hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from old trees, that wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit. Robert L. StevensonMaking new friendsOld time musicThe cliff walk
Parks and Gardens
Stanley Park
Stanley Park is a great place to chill out and escape the city traffic, that is if you are not tempted to run, rollerblade or cycle around it! We walk round the edge of it one day, and later in the week explore the middle bit, to escape the city heat.
Looking back at the city from the seawall walk
Lion’s Gate Bridge
Carved prow from the Empress of China ship
totem poles in the park
totems in Stanley Park
Our guides for a stroll around the park!
Heron on the shore
Bill Reid’s Whale, outside the Aquarium
Brockton Point lighthouse
Where’s Mike?
sheltering shade
Stanley Park trail
lost lagoon, Stanley Park
Siwash Rock, according to Native legend, a young warrior, turned to enduring stone for his courage.
Inukshuk, English Bay, a symbol of friendship
A-Maze-ing laughter, English Bay
Sunset at English Bay
Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is modelled on a scholar’s home during the Ming Dynasty. We take a guided tour, with a free cup of tea, learning about Chinese symbolism and how to balance Yin and Yang in your outside ‘space’.
the garden entrance
Colourful Chinatown
Perfect balance of water, rock and planting
The terrace, where ladies would have paraded alluringly for their husband!
No nails, screws or power tools were used in the garden construction
Willow is a symbol of feminine grace
Windows and moongates make the garden appear larger than it really is
Chinatown gate
Chinatown street
Famous Grouse
Room with a view! Mountaintop restaurant, Grouse Mountain.
A short bus ride away from Downtown, we encounter a surprising array of entertainment atop the ski resort of Grouse Mountain.
Views towards Mount Cathedral and Alaska somewhere over there….
Birds of prey, grizzly bears, hummingbirds, Mike’s fear of heights tested in the ‘Eye of the Wind’ experience, and I (it’s my age, apparently!) try unsuccessfully to stay cool during the lumberjack display! (cue Michael Palin here in checked shirt with Mountie backing singers in Monty Python sketch).
Atop the ‘Eye of the Wind’
The ‘Eye of the Wind’ turbine which generates all the power for the Grouse Mountain site
the viewing tower
going up the ski lift
cool grizzly
two grizzlies
bored grizzly?
tired grizzly
Aarrrghhhh!
Mountain view
Peregrine falcon, fastest flight of any bird
majestic bald eage
barn owl watching
hawkeye
ready for take off
protecting the prey
‘I’m a lumberjack and I’m OK, I sleep all night and I work all day…’
climbing up a long tree trunk for some reason…
now that’s just silly!
rolling log thing
I chop down trees, I have my lunch…..
sawing race…
axe throwing competition…
The famous ‘lumberjack sandwich’ photo!Here’s a peaceful view to calm you down now……….
Tofino: Sophisticated Bohemian
Main street, Tofino
Tofino, on the west coast of Vancouver Island perfectly epitomises the Pacific northwest attitude, providing enough hipsters, artisan coffee, surfing dudes, beards, dogs on ropes (and in handbags) to keep us entertained for a week. Tourism has taken over from the past trade in sea otter pelts, whale products, timber and fish, but there remains a strong sense of connection to the environment, and many unspoiled places to explore.We even have one day when it doesn’t rain and we go black bear spotting!
Mackenzie beach
Mackenzie beach
Northwest woman
Cedarwood seat, Chesterman beach
Northwest man
Chesterman beach
Snack stop between north and south Chesterman beachesView from Tofino harbour
black bear sniffing out crabs for lunch
rest stop
lazy afternoon
spotted us!
looking for crabs
Rim of fire
‘Places do not belong to people. People belong to places’. Xumthoult, Saanich Nation
Between Tofino and Ucluelet (you-clue-let) is the Pacific Rim National park. Red cedar driftwood logs line the shore like piles of discarded giant cigars and dense temperate rainforest meets the crashing waves on the wild, unspoilt beaches. Bald eagles soar past us as we hike through the forest trails and explore the beaches.
on the trail…..
old growth rainforest
bald eagle lookout
red squirrel
red cedar cigar!
rockpooling
giant banana slug
Eagle flight
Graveyard of the Pacific, where many shipwrecks took place
raindrops
beach art
where the land meets the sea, where human and natural worlds unite
west coast temperate rainforest
Lighthouse trail
rainforest trail
in the presence of giants
enchanted forest
verdant moss
mossy viewStunted trees on the ‘bog’ walk‘a breath that draws your breath into its breathing, a heartbeat that pounds on yours, a recognition of the oneness of all things’ Emily Carr
And so it is with treasured experiences in our hearts and several full memory cards, we leave the Pacific Northwest and return homeward, to catch up with family, friends and think about going back to the world of work!
Until the next adventure: Go well, Be well, and have Fun!
Mike and Kath xx
‘One’s destination is not a place but a new way of seeing things.’ Henry Miller