Keep Portland Weird

Lonely Planet’s  Portland is ‘dynamic but mellow’ and this energetic town has a laid-back, alternative style, full of friendly people, and the ‘keep Portland weird’ slogan!  A haven for bearded eco-activists, outdoor types, cyclists, vegans and gardeners, with numerous craft brewpubs, coffeehouses, knitting circles and yoga classes. We feel just as comfortable in our walking clothes dining in smart restaurants as we do in the pubs or local food carts.

We are staying in the gracious 19th century  Nob Hill neighbourhood of shady trees, large wooden houses juxtaposed with colourful apartment buildings. The slightly Bohemian atmosphere with upscale boutique shopping and cafes makes it a great place to stroll and potter in amongst the dog-walkers, chiropractors, herbalists and yoga-mat carrying healthy people!

The streetcar takes us to Downtown, where we explore varied restaurants and food carts, and Powells City of Books, the largest independent bookstore in the world! I bought two books by local authors, David Guterson and Ursula le Guin, and could have spent all day here, browsing the colour-themed rooms of new and second-hand books.

I spend an afternoon in the art museum while Mike does a ‘guided’ pub tour! The museum gives me a flavour for the Pacific Northwest culture, with emphasis on the great outdoors, (forests in particular), the native American influences and an economy built on logging and farming, following the great migrations of the 19th century after explorers Lewis and Clark  discovered a route to the West.

In the heart of the Old Town is the Lan Su Chinese garden. Beautiful landscaped plantings, water, stone, pear pine and bamboo and wooden pavilions provide welcome shade on another hot day. An area for rest and contemplation, poems are inscribed on the rocks and doorways, to help focus the mind.We take lunch in the traditional tea house, which was so good, even Mike was enthusing about tea by the time we left!

City of bridges and roses

There are eight bridges across the Willamette River in Portland, the oldest being the Morrison bridge 1887. We have a ‘cruise’ down the River to learn about the bridges, and see them at their best from the water. (it reminds me of Newcastle, except Portland still has a thriving steel industry).  The most spectacular is the Steel Bridge, where the railroad deck lifts up to let a ship pass underneath.

We are here during the Rose parade week, and the gardens are in full bloom for summer – though a bit of wilting in the 100 degree heat the first few days of our visit! To take advantage of the green spaces, we visit the 4-acre Rose Test garden in Washington Park, which has award-winning roses from all over the world.

 

Across the road is the Japanese garden, where plants, stones and water are arranged to reflect the essence of nature and stimulate all our senses in a beautifully designed small space.

We manage to see some of the Rose Parade floats on our walk Downtown to the waterfront, escaping the rain until the end of the parade!

The Wild West!

New friends Erling and Satoko, very kindly took us on two road trips this week, the highlight of our stay here in Portland! The first was to Mount Hood and the Columbia River gorge, lunch at Timberline Lodge with stops at Multnomah waterfall and Smith Rock desert state park – so many contrasting environments, from pine-forested ski slopes, through Warm Springs reservation to the ochre soil and towering rock pinnacles of the desert, golden in the evening light.

On our second road trip, we explore the vineyards of Dundee, in the Willamette Valley, driving past orchards and hazelnut trees, and enjoy great conversation, good humour and more fabulous food!

So we are ‘good to go’ as we swap the train for a Corolla and  head further west to the Oregon coast for our scenic drive up to Washington state, and say cheerio to Portland, we have loved every day!

Mike and Kath xx

Thought for travellers everywhere:  ‘There’s no wrong way. Whatever gets you there.’                                                                             East of the Mountains, David Guterson.