Golden Bay and Tasman: Sans Souci!

Golden Bay: Golden memories

The region of Golden Bay and Abel Tasman national park is well known for its idyllic unspoiled beaches and tramping tracks in the Kahurangi national park, which we were keen to explore!

Our drive to Golden Bay included a stomach churning meander over Takaka hill! Life is different ‘over the hill’, a slower pace, where we can take time to slow down and relaaax!

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View from Takaka hill

We stock up on the local ‘raw’ milk (remember the cream on the top of the bottle?) and fresh organic fruit and veg from local farms. I acquire a new liking for Nashi pears (cross between an apple and a pear) a juicy, crunchy experience, and delicious cumin cheese! 

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Abandoned farm on the road to Takaka
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Stall selling ‘Nashi’ pears 

Takaka is a bit like Glastonbury, an alternative place with a high concentration of barefooted, yoga-panted, dread-locking alternative lifestylers!  For two people who met at a festival (in the ‘mystical chai experience tent’ I might add), it is our kinda place! We spend some quality time with friends in Pohara and enjoy some great walking, superb veggie food and relax at the local spa.

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Devangi, Mike, me and Marjo at the spa cafe in Pohara
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Afternoon tea, anyone?
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Delicious food at Sans Souci restaurant (means ‘no worries’ in French!), which has a plant-filled mosaic bathroom and composting toilets!
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We arrived a day late for the annual naked bike ride through Pohara! A new slant on freewheeling!! Hope they remembered to apply the factor 50!!

 

 

Bush and Beach

We enjoy a picnic at Paton’s beach, a popular retirement area, and enjoy a paddle along the sand…

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Picnic at Paton’s Beach

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Te Waikoropupu Springs (place of the dancing sands), is the largest freshwater Spring system in New Zealand, and are sacred (wahi tapu) to Maori.

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Pupu springs colours

 

 

The Pupu Hydro Walkway, reminded us of the levada walks in Madeira, with superb views of the valley and hills below, though sturdy handrails meant not much vertigo here! Even met a couple of DOC workers who showed us the worlds biggest moss which grows up to 5 cms tall!

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The Pupu hydro walkway
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Enjoying the view
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 New Zealand native bushland

 

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Probably the tallest moss in the world!

Mike enjoys a walk along the beach whilst I view the Spit from the saddle with Cape Farewell horse treks, crossing the Old Man Range. The stables’ claim to fame was supplying the black horse for Gandalf (Sir Ian Mcellan) for the Hobbit movies!

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At Wharariki Beach, a jumble of caves, islets, rock pools and sand dunes
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Spectacular Wharariki beach

 

 

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View of Farewell Spit, one of the longest sandbars in the world, from horseback!
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With Andy, an ex-racehorse!

We enjoy a tough climb up Gibbs hill on part of the Abel Tasman track, starting at Wainui Bay.

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Top end of Abel Tasman track

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At the top of Gibbs Hill! Yay!
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Tramping the coastline
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A shy but curious Weka

A shorter walk to Wainui Falls is still a spectacular scenic ramble, and good for us when we are still recovering from the steep Gibbs Hill climb!

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Wainui Falls

 

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Marjo and me enjoying the view on the Wainui falls walk

Abel Tasman: Adventurers and Artisans

Leaving Takaka behind, we continue exploring the Abel Tasman coastline basing ourselves at Marahau, less of a town and more of a collection of holiday homes and water taxi/kayaking businesses. Ideally situated for walking or sea kayaking, we continue our adventures! Named after Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, the area has a tropical island feel about it, though poor Abel didn’t stay long following an experience with some angry natives, thankfully the people are more friendly now than they were in the 17th century!

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Beach and bush
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Crossing Oneahuti Bay
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Tree ferns abound in the lush forest
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Split Apple rock

 

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Light on the track

On one of our rainy days, we had a drive round Upper Moutere area, exploring the galleries, pottery studios and craft shops, culminating in a fantastic day at Mapua Easter fair (the biggest one day event on South Island!).  Mike enjoys the craft beers and fine wines, and I discover craft chocolate and artisan ginger beer!

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One of the ‘art’ galleries
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Mapua Easter fair 
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With Marjo and Devangi with their stall at the fair

The small port of Mapua is famous for its food and craft beer. I think if you use the words ‘craft’, ‘artisan’ or ‘organic’ with respect to any food or beverage product, you can make a good living around these parts!

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Mapua harbour

A lot of the Upper Moutere region was settled by German Lutherans in the 1840s, who built a church, a pub and started a school. English settlers joined them to dredge the swampy ground for farming. Though many farms failed due to flooding, there are a few pubs and churches which continue in the German tradition, and we find many graves in the churchyards inscribed in German.

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German Lutheran church at Sarau
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Artisan vinyards flourish alongside fruit and hop farms. At Neudorf vinyard. Apparently the Chardonnay was very good!

Continuing on our culture and craft theme, we take the art trail around the town of Motueka, to see more examples of public art, and some interesting buildings.

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Colourful cafe in Motueka
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Bench outside the information centre

 

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Senior citizens club (next to the local school, across the road from the probation service!)
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Apple and pear warehouse, Mapua.

That’s all for now folks, we will catch up with you in Marlborough Sounds…. enjoy your journey, wherever you are.

Small thought from the Pohara Spa to leave you with:

“What you think you create, what you feel you attract, what you imagine you become” Buddha.

 

Kath and Mike xx

 

 

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