Tekapo: Pictures of a floating world

We leave the Lakes District for a few days in Lake Tekapo, in the Mackenzie district. On the way, we pass familiar tree ferns and New Zealand beech surrounding the road, then to more open grasslands of the Lindis Pass.

Lake Tekapo and Lake Punakaki are famous for their other-worldly turquoise colour.

Generating hydroelectric power, Lake Tekapo, like Queenstown, is a ski resort in winter, but still buzzing with summer tourists and backpackers in March. We had to wait ages for this few seconds gap in the tourists to get this shot below, and in true teacher style, Mike actually ‘herded’ a coachload of tourists down to where we were standing to stop them walking into the shot, saying “best photo from this place!”

Staying out late for the Dark Skies astronomy tour at Cowan’s observatory, we marvel at the Milky Way, spot the Southern cross, Jupiter, Mars and the odd nebula or two. One of those experiences you can’t really photograph, as the light from your camera affects your night vision and it takes ten minutes for your eyes to adjust again!

After getting back at 1am from the stargazing experience, I was in much need of my beauty sleep, so the sunrise photos the next day were taken by Mike (who normally isn’t a morning person!).

Aoraki Mt Cook

Mount Cook has changed a lot since we were here eight years ago, with motels and more eating places, not just the Hermitage hotel and the YHA. The treks now have new steps and even flushing toilets at the start of the walks!

Mike explores the DOC centre and I have a sobering read of the books of remembrance for all the climbers who have died on the mountain in tragic accidents (many were instructors). Each page retells the fateful events accompanied by a poignant photograph, and I recall a book by Rosie Thomas I recently read called White, about an ill-fated Everest expedition, and also the film ‘Sherpa’, which looks like it might be a dramatic and politically emotive movie.

Inside the DOC centre, I come across an apt quote from Bruce Jenkinson (1972) which sums up the feeling of this majestically beautiful but wild place,

” Lord, what a place. A huge inclined triangle of ice, brittle, featureless, cold and so high. Haunched to the sea and the incessant, ruthless wind”

Hanmer Springs

On the road to Hanmer we have a lunch stop at a little town called Oxford, with another lovely cafe and more gluten free cakes to sample!

We enjoy reading the local newsletter and of particular interest to Mike is the ‘Oxford Community Men’s Shed’ meetings among the local clubs and society listings!

The small spa town of Hanmer has an alpine village feel, reflected in the weatherboarded buildings and the surrounding forests.

Mike has his birthday treat with a long forest walk, then a few hours at the thermal pools. The Spa compex is a fantastic outdoor thermal retreat, with natural hot waters heated between 38 and 42 degrees, including aqua therapy pools. Aahhhh! Very relaxing!

After cooking at our hostel for a few evenings, we treat ourselves to a delicious ‘birthday’ curry at Malabar Asian fusion restaurant.

Many types of trees here, both coniferous and deciduous, with planting from Europe, Asia and the Americas, as well as native specimens. The forests were planted after the first world war, providing work for returning soldiers and local prisoners.

When it was too hot for walking we had a round of crazy golf and relaxed in our wonderful hostel, Hanmer Backpackers, run by Dutch and Japanese husband and wife Tristan and Yoko. Feeling more like a Swiss mountain chalet than a hostel, we are treated to freshly baked cakes each day, ground coffee and tea on tap, with plenty space for lounging around, and even twenty minutes each day on the professional massage chair!!

Chatting to a genuinely awesome Dutch couple in our hostel (they were camping of course), who are semi-retired and doing a seven year trip around the world, in their boat, spending their children’s inheritance, we suddenly felt a bit less awesome than we had previously, but nevertheless inspired!

See you soon, next stop Golden Bay and the Abel Tasman coast,

Mike and Kath X