From Country to Blues

Nashville to Memphis is only three hours by road. Luckily, we were able to use the iPhone to help navigate, as the car hire company  (sounds like a Star Trek ship) didn’t have a road map (not boldly going after all then).  A couple of rest stops for some fast food and we had arrived in Memphis – home of the Blues, Gibson guitars, Stax records, Sun Studios, and of course, Graceland.

BB King: Blues and Ribs

Both day and night on Beale Street, you can hear soul pouring out of the bars and clubs as you do the obligatory ‘walking in…’  with live music in Rum Doodles, where I discovered fried green tomatoes, and Mike had a nachos ‘starter’ that lasted all night!  I was impressed by the laryngectomee with his Blom Singer valve hollering at everyone going down Beale to step into his bar and eat the ‘best ribs’ in town!

Memphis claims to be home to the best BBQ in the South, and if the ribs and steaks are anything to go by, I would certainly agree! Central BBQ is where we experience a ‘rack of ribs’, and of course half one portion between us! 

Our favourite joint (place not food) is BB King’s, where the King Beez  play blues versions of any song you can think of, and the food is worth queuing for with a paper ticket number (a bit like waiting at the deli counter at Sainsburys, but with a bar and music).

By now, I am going straight for the ‘shrimp and grits’, my new favourite thing, and they were recommended by Cheryl from Nebraska (who was right by the way, very buttery, thanks Cheryl!). Armed with my driving license again for ID, the reception lady at BBKings lets me in free, as she can’t believe I am as old as my license! (Mike is getting a bit tired of all this by now).

Wandering along the Mississippi waterfront we come to a big pyramid (who knew Memphis has an Egyptian connection?). The main attraction is the blue glass elevator ride to the viewing deck to watch another glorious sunset over the Mighty river.

Once inside this Outdoor World- meets-taxidermist land shopping mall, we enjoy taking in the Southern culture of hunting, fishing and camping, weaving in and out of stuffed bears and deer, bearded baseball-capped rugged types looking at waders and rows of fishing tackle, to gaze at large catfish swimming in tanks with plastic river weed (I wonder if they feel scared being next to all those fishing rods?).

The King: Graceland and Sun Studios

I am reading Rosanne Cash’s autobiography, ‘Composed’ and am amazed by the connectedness of the songwriting world (one of her daughters is married to Morrissey’s nephew and lives in Manchester and  she was influenced by the music of Mark Knopfler). She talks about coming to terms with being “a feminine woman who lacks classically feminine interests, never interested in the typically girlish topics of conversation and pursuits”, and I feel a certain kinship as I read a letter written by her on display in Sun Studios.

Sun  is where Elvis became famous, and where Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison and (more recently) U2 have all recorded, and Mike of course. : ) (see below).

We step back in time to the 1950s with our Brazilian guide and soak up more music vibes, then enjoy a one dollar cup of tea whilst sitting on someone famous (actually bar stools with famous names on!). I leave with a new guitar pick and some inspiration!

From Sun Studios we catch the shuttle to Graceland and join the lines waiting for the iPad guided tour.

I had misgivings of ostentatious tackiness, but we were genuinely pleased to find Graceland a fairly modest, even homely place, and the museum exhibits tasteful and moving.

We depart with our appreciation of Elvis reignited, and a portrait of the superstar as a man who loved his family, was passionate about his music and was generous to those he cared for.

Dr King: Civil Rights and Memorials

Moving from the Meditation Garden memorials at Graceland to The Civil Rights Museum, and its own memorial to another King (Martin Luther) keep us in reflective state of mind.  The Museum is housed in the Lorraine Motel where Dr King was assassinated, and the room across the road where James Earl Ray made the shot has been carefully constructed in accurate detail; quite weirded out by this but very emotive at the same time, and the museum can take a good whole day to appreciate.

The exhibits trace the history of slavery from the 17th century, right up until the 60s, with gay and women’s rights in the 70s.  As we wander around the museum, we have time to acknowledge all the amazing people who have sacrificed themselves for our freedom and we feel a deep sense of gratitude.

We say farewell to the three Kings of Memphis, and continue our journey on board  ‘The City of New Orleans’ train, heading further south for the home of Jazz……..